Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 2,851 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


This moderate gets a reasonably good review in the Dick Williams Trapps Guide, but I wasn't a huge fan.

The route starts just past the Guide's Wall area, and left of the large Dis-Mantel block, at a large right-facing corner capped with overhangs.

P1: Climb the large right-facing corner past a small, sketchy tree. Just before the corner ends at the large overhang, traverse left out onto the face to a semi-hanging belay. 5.5, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right above the overhangs until directly below a large tree on the GT Ledge. Then climb basically straight up the thin face to juggy terrain. Belay off the tree. 5.5, 80'.

The easiest descent is to rappel with two ropes from the tree on the GT Ledge. You can make it down with one 60m rope from this tree, but it requires an angling rappel to a second anchor. You can probably find an easier rap by traversing the GT Ledge in either direction.


Standard Gunks rack. Pitch 2 is protected by small-medium cams and tricam placements that are sometimes difficult to find; if you find yourself getting runout, look around more.


- No Photos -
did the first pitch (followed)and it wasnt that fun. imo. Nov 25, 2007
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.5 PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.5 PG13
Crappy rappel and scarey PG/R-ish runout on the second pitch keeps the stars down, however the climbing is good. Excellent roof to finish the second pitch. Jul 28, 2011
Valerie A.B.
Las Vegas, NV
  5.5 R
Valerie A.B.   Las Vegas, NV
  5.5 R
Loved the first pitch. The second pitch had a scary run-out. Found myself in a difficult spot as I was wandering to find gear. Ended up about 15 feet above my last piece which was a white tricam! Definitely felt that I was in a 'cannot fall' situation. Not for the beginning 5.5 leader...don't be lured by the G-PG rating in the book. Jul 29, 2011
K Swissto
Denver, CO
K Swissto   Denver, CO
I'd say R protection unless you're okay with using aid pieces for trad.
The climbing is great; pro, not so much. Oct 17, 2013
Bronx, NY
ebmudder   Bronx, NY
Definitely link both pitches with a 70. 2nd pitch is 5.2-5.4 straight up to the GT Ledge/tree. No rope drag if you protect before stepping left onto the arete, then skip the first belay and continue back right above the roof and straight up to tree.

Rap down to slings above gully on climber's right (not the slings for the first belay). Sep 20, 2015
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
This route deserves more stars and attention. P1 looked ugly to me (I actually postponed climbing it several times) but was much nicer than I expected. Well protected and interesting moves in the corner and I really enjoyed building the airy gear belay. I disagree with the R on P2. You have to look around for protection and it is definitely tricky (solid PG). However, the climbing is generally easy. What appeared to be the 5.5 move was well protected with regular gear. After that there is a bit of runout, but as soon as I started to get concerned, I found a nice equalized placement of green C3 and yellow X4. I was more concerned about the loose blocks above the runout. Overall, it is an excellent climb, but you need small gear - C3 and/or X4. Oct 12, 2015