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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 2,621 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This moderate gets a reasonably good review in the Dick Williams Trapps Guide, but I wasn't a huge fan.

The route starts just past the Guide's Wall area, and left of the large Dis-Mantel block, at a large right-facing corner capped with overhangs.

P1: Climb the large right-facing corner past a small, sketchy tree. Just before the corner ends at the large overhang, traverse left out onto the face to a semi-hanging belay. 5.5, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right above the overhangs until directly below a large tree on the GT Ledge. Then climb basically straight up the thin face to juggy terrain. Belay off the tree. 5.5, 80'.

The easiest descent is to rappel with two ropes from the tree on the GT Ledge. You can make it down with one 60m rope from this tree, but it requires an angling rappel to a second anchor. You can probably find an easier rap by traversing the GT Ledge in either direction.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Pitch 2 is protected by small-medium cams and tricam placements that are sometimes difficult to find; if you find yourself getting runout, look around more.

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Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
This route deserves more stars and attention. P1 looked ugly to me (I actually postponed climbing it several times) but was much nicer than I expected. Well protected and interesting moves in the corner and I really enjoyed building the airy gear belay. I disagree with the R on P2. You have to look around for protection and it is definitely tricky (solid PG). However, the climbing is generally easy. What appeared to be the 5.5 move was well protected with regular gear. After that there is a bit of runout, but as soon as I started to get concerned, I found a nice equalized placement of green C3 and yellow X4. I was more concerned about the loose blocks above the runout. Overall, it is an excellent climb, but you need small gear - C3 and/or X4. Oct 12, 2015
ebmudder
Bronx, NY
ebmudder   Bronx, NY
Definitely link both pitches with a 70. 2nd pitch is 5.2-5.4 straight up to the GT Ledge/tree. No rope drag if you protect before stepping left onto the arete, then skip the first belay and continue back right above the roof and straight up to tree.

Rap down to slings above gully on climber's right (not the slings for the first belay). Sep 20, 2015
kswissto
Boulder, CO
kswissto   Boulder, CO
I'd say R protection unless you're okay with using aid pieces for trad.
The climbing is great; pro, not so much. Oct 17, 2013
Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
  5.5 R
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
  5.5 R
Loved the first pitch. The second pitch had a scary run-out. Found myself in a difficult spot as I was wandering to find gear. Ended up about 15 feet above my last piece which was a white tricam! Definitely felt that I was in a 'cannot fall' situation. Not for the beginning 5.5 leader...don't be lured by the G-PG rating in the book. Jul 29, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.5 PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.5 PG13
Crappy rappel and scarey PG/R-ish runout on the second pitch keeps the stars down, however the climbing is good. Excellent roof to finish the second pitch. Jul 28, 2011
Spiro  
did the first pitch (followed)and it wasnt that fun. imo. Nov 25, 2007