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Routes in Mr. Meanor Wall

40 to Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Latrine , The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr. Meanor T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mug Shot T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Scott Free T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Safe Cracker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soap on a Rope TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
St. Valentines Day Massacre T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,839 total, 13/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

Crux is the start, at least for my sub-six-foot frame. Long reach (throw) to small edge, and some more thin moves at the bottom. Start was considerably easier for my 6'4" partner.

Location

Had this one in the wrong spot. This starts at the dish-shaped feature between Mr. Meanor and Mug Shot.

Protection

Gear with a couple bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Delicate little bit of slab to start (we began right below the "bowl" and did not use the disconnected slab that rests against the wall). As noted, a single nut placement helps mitigate the space between bolts (a #7 bd, the little-ish red one, for us). May 15, 2015
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
Added Mussy hooks to anchors. Jan 1, 2012
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
Fun crux start with an easier (3' to the right), harder (semi-direct 1.5' to the right), and hardest (direct) way to do it which I feel go at 5.8+(9-), 5.9-(9), and 5.9+(10a). After the start it is sustained 5.8+ crimping with a second easier crux through a bulge halfway up. Super-fun!

Takes a #7 (yellow)(and/or #6) BD Stopper and a #1 DMM torque nut like the crack was made for them... Dec 12, 2011
Great little number....5.9 may be a bit stiff other than the start....pretty straight forward and protects great. May 20, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
#3 nut to supplement the 3 bolts. Cool bowl feature at the start. Apr 20, 2009
Micah C
  5.9+
Micah C  
  5.9+
I concur with the nut placement. It's a good idea. Otherwise it would be a bit run out. Dec 1, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
just bring a set of nuts, there is one placement on this route and its a medium sized nut, or a small tcu or alien if you like Nov 23, 2007