PRINT: Rock Climb Progressive Slots, Northern Arizona

Progressive Slots

5.7, Sport,

Avg: 1.8 from 86 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow- Hwy’s… > Jacks Canyon > Casino Cliffs

Description

Nice warmup or first lead. Unlike Circus Circus down the wall to the left, this is an actual 5.6 that beginning leaders will be comfortable on. Trickier start to easy big ledges above.

Location

Climbs buttress where the wall juts out to the right of the main trail from the parking lot. Right of the ramp. Between harder climbs, so the 5.6 holds should be obvious.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pattie practices her long reach for pulling that slot machine handle!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hillary Davis

Best "first lead" in the canyon. Mar 21, 2007

Randy Loveless

Nice, easy route with big holds! Really good lead for beginners! Oct 19, 2008

Michael Frank

5.7+

Either I am confused or some other folks are. "I am Gumby", which is to the left of "Progressive Slots", is definitely a 5.5...maybe a 5.6; its a great "first lead" with really big holds. But that's not the point. "Progressive Slots" is NOT a 5.6 climb. It is more like 5.7+ or even 5.8- climbing due a short but difficult start. This is not a good "first lead" and until you get 10 ft up there are not very good holds. After you get past the start it is a fun 5.6 to the top.

Let me know if I am way off base here. Oct 20, 2009

Peter Thomas
Prescott, AZ

Michael is right. The first move is pretty hard, and this would probably not be a very good first lead based on that. however, the route is still great. Noticed while climbing today that the left anchor bolt is a little wiggle. Still seems secure, but not as bomber as it used to be. Apr 21, 2013

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ

5.7+

agreed, this route would be a terrible first lead and is sandbagged as hell due to a very tricky start. perhaps some holds broke off? May 6, 2013

Marcy -
Tucson/DMR

5.6

It's been years since I've been out there. This was my son's first sport lead at age 12 and a good friend of mine's first lead as well. I felt it was 5.6ish back then, but perhaps some stuff came off. May 7, 2013

Miguel D
SLC

5.8-

I'd have to agree with previous comments. I was really confused finding this route because the start was way more than a 5.6 so I thought I was at the wrong route, despite having the guidebook. I'd almost call it a 5.8 start and 5.6 rest of the way, but since the climb is rated to the highest moves, I'd have to say this route is a 5.8. Or at least a 5.7+ Aug 17, 2015

NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ

The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) replaced all pro bolts and the anchor with glue-ins on 2/23/20. This was made possible by generous donations from climbers like you, and with collaboration from the ASCA and the Access Fund. The NAZCC hopes to continue anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region, but we need your help! Follow us and donate at nazcc.org Feb 23, 2020