Mountain Project Logo

Routes in G Crags

A Frayed Not T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baggage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
By the Seat of Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holey Ghost, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mitten, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Wing and a Prayer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Reef Knot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Slab family Ross and Son. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 860 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, Marea Ross May 2 2006
Page Views: 49 total, 0/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts above the first wave just left of the canyon that separates the Reef Knot formation from the A Frayed Not route. The initial pitches are the very obvious groove/cracks on the right edge of the Reef Knot formation.. Scramble from the top of the wave to a large boulder with a cairn on its top.

P1)Up slab via a shallow crack then trend right to the foot of the Groove /cracks. Cam belay. 200'.5.3
P2) Follow left hand groove to double anchors on the left. 200'5.4
P3)Continue up the groove to natural belay on a flake. 200' 5.5.
P4)Scramble up about 40' where the groove ends go left along a ramp ,then straight up to a steep wall below a large pot hole. Double anchors .80' 5.3. (this next pitch could be avoided by an easy slab to the left)
P5)Climb to the pothole then past a pro bolt, to easier climbing to spike belay. 180' 5.8.
P6)4th class slabs to the summit.

Descent:- The FA party was caught in a thunder storm and rather than set up rappels thought it quicker to down climb the route avoiding P5 to its left. One member of the party totally wrecked a new pair of climbing pants while slithering at great speed down the grooves , hence the name of the route. The other alternative is to locate the rap anchors of Reef Knot at south from a large ledge on the ridge.

Location

Hike north from the Univa canyon road end . About 20 mins. see photo.

Protection

A few cams from 1.5" to 3.5" slings .Two 60m Ropes.

Photos

0 Comments