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Routes in 6. Midnight Buttress

Easy Street T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Streak T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Obvious Crack, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prow-ess TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,476 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Follow the small ledges and holds up to the roof. Pull the roof using the crack and continue to the top using the crack. The crack is somewhat shallow, making jams difficult at times. The crux is definitely the crack section. Its called mean streak for a reason.
  • RCM&W #71, p.47.

Location

In the middle of the Midnight Buttress find a black streak that goes about half way up the pink rock and turns into a small roof with a crack in the white rock above.

Protection

Nuts, Cams, Hexes, nothing bigger than hand sized. Standard top rope setup.

Photos

Riggs
  5.10-
Riggs  
  5.10-
Definately a great climb. It starts out easy and gets hard a few feet below the roof. There is a key hold that you can't see from below the roof but it bomber if you can get to it. Short people will need to do some interesting footwork. May 4, 2009
Sam Smolnisky
Custer, SD
Sam Smolnisky   Custer, SD
Great Lead, protects through the crux Oct 11, 2011
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
The Hynek and Landmann Blue Mounds guide give this an r rating.
I distinctly remember I only used one jam and the rest were face holds.
If you are solid at the grade you may be fine but don't jump on this on lead expecting to get lots of great gear. Oct 21, 2016

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