Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Pat Akerson and Al Simons
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jun 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Squeeze up the offwidth, crux 15 feet up. Solid rock. Exit out the top and wander up and right to the top of the ridge on easy rock.

Location

0.6 miles past the Biege Siphon Tube is a paved pullout on the south side of the road. Uphill to the east lie several slabs with existing routes on them. At the very top, 700 feet up, lies a rock wall 40-60 feet high that slope up from left to right. This wall can be accessed by climbing routes on the slabs below and finishing with one of the routes on the ridge top. 50 feet left of the end of the ridge (30 feet left of short but sweet) will get you to Short but Squeezed. Getting down is best accomplished by rappelling off of the anchors at the top of Double O then rapping off of trees and rocks to get down to the road.

Protection

Large cams 3-6 inches. No bolts or anchors on top. Walk off back of the ridge.

Photos

Stiles
the Mountains
 
Stiles   the Mountains
 
Fun little climb. I had posted it as Vedauwoo de GrĂ¢ce; luckily the wise Kyle Kingrey pulled my ass out of the fire once again and corrected my oversight. Apologies, Mister Simons, keep up the good work.

  • This final headwall makes for an awesome four pitch day, with lots of options to play on at the end.

Lots of potential up there. Just waiting... Jul 17, 2007
allen simons
  5.7+
allen simons  
  5.7+
Kudos on the solo, actually Pat Ackerson led it with me in tow, as usual. My guess is that there is a high probability that this and Short But Sweet were done 2 or 3 decades ago. There is evidence of other lines, steep ones to the right and left of this, that have fixed gear in them. Perhaps Mark Wilford, Jim Disney, or someone else will provide insight to these forgotten lines. They are fun. Jul 19, 2007