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Eros

5.10d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 61 votes
FA: Tom Hargis, 2001
Wyoming > Lander Area > Sinks Canyon > Moss Cave & Face Dancer

Description

This classic line is a recent addition to the cliff and a great tandem line to Face Dancer. The route has a slightly easier crux than Face Dancer, that also comes within the first 3-4 clips and amazing, continuous climbing on pockets and edges.

Location

This line is just right of Face Dancer, starting in nearly the same position, but trends up and right before heading straight up the face. Also located just left of Wicker Man (11a).

Protection

11 bolts to Clip-n-Lower anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Col at the third bolt with the Fallen Idol Pillar in the Background. Note how the route heads up and right. Above her the route heads straight up.
[Hide Photo] Col at the third bolt with the Fallen Idol Pillar in the Background. Note how the route heads up and right. Above her the route heads straight up.
Col crimping and clipping midway up the line.
[Hide Photo] Col crimping and clipping midway up the line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bob branscomb
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] This route is called Eros in Bechtel's book....rated 10d. Nov 13, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
[Hide Comment] FA Tom Hargis 2001 Aug 29, 2010
Matt Hartman
Leavenworth WA
[Hide Comment] one of the more overlooked 5.10's in the canyon. long and good. Jun 12, 2013
Ian Edison
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] A good route, but no where near as good as Face Dancer. The climb is very wondery with long gaps between holds and a bolt line that doesn't really follow the hold line. Expect to make long reaches horizontally rather than vertically, both to get to the next holds and to clip the bolts. May 15, 2021
Ryan Hargis
[Hide Comment] My dad named this route Eris (god of discord). Don't think he minds the misscomunicated name. This and the routes left of face dancer are named in refrence to Bush ordering the invasion of Iraq. I'm biased but I really like this route Feb 15, 2023