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Wine and Roses

5.11a, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 100 votes
FA: Steve Petro and Arno Ilgner
Wyoming > Fremont Canyon > Wine & Roses

Description

90 foot arching mostly hand crack, with a 20 foot big fingers/thin hands crux finish. Impecable rock quality, position and movement. One of the area's best and the climb to do at its grade

Location

Locate the anchors for the climb Thanatos (plaque, and about 100 yards downstream). Walk up stream past a set of anchors for the climbs Cashew Corner and Stigmata(From these anchors you can look over the edge and see the obvious and stunning line). The next set of anchors are obvious and right above the top of the crack. Rap in from the top 90 feet to a bolted belay at a very small ledge above the river.

Protection

Standard rack with extras in the hands sizes. We used 2-#1 camalots, 3-#2 camalots and 2-#3 camalots. Bring a BD .3 or similar for the start, some nuts, and save a couple thin hands pieces for the crux (purple and grey camalots)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thin crux on Wine and Roses.
[Hide Photo] Thin crux on Wine and Roses.
Josh Finkelstein diggin' into a beauty.<br> Photo by: Frosty Weller
[Hide Photo] Josh Finkelstein diggin' into a beauty. Photo by: Frosty Weller
Josh and Sash on the ultra mega.<br> Photo by: Frosty Weller
[Hide Photo] Josh and Sash on the ultra mega. Photo by: Frosty Weller
Before the final thin section...<br> Photo by: Frosty Weller
[Hide Photo] Before the final thin section... Photo by: Frosty Weller
Michal gets revenge on Wine & Roses. Check out our trip report at http://www.aspiringalpinist.com/trip-report-fremont-canyon/. Photo by Gabriel Kiritz.
[Hide Photo] Michal gets revenge on Wine & Roses. Check out our trip report at http://www.aspiringalpinist.com/trip-report-fremont-canyon/. Photo by Gabriel Kiritz.
The fingers/thin hand finish.<br> Photo by: Frosty Weller
[Hide Photo] The fingers/thin hand finish. Photo by: Frosty Weller
Nicole sending the birthday gnar on Wine and Roses.
[Hide Photo] Nicole sending the birthday gnar on Wine and Roses.
Its that good
[Hide Photo] Its that good
SUPed up canyon and scrambled rocks to get this perspective of Wine and Roses. Hard to believe it goes less than halfway down the cliff!
[Hide Photo] SUPed up canyon and scrambled rocks to get this perspective of Wine and Roses. Hard to believe it goes less than halfway down the cliff!
From the bottom
[Hide Photo] From the bottom
Michal working Wine and Roses while Wine and Roses works Michal. Here are all 90 feet of super pumpy fun!
[Hide Photo] Michal working Wine and Roses while Wine and Roses works Michal. Here are all 90 feet of super pumpy fun!
Amazing climb! Photo: Sedric Kodak
[Hide Photo] Amazing climb! Photo: Sedric Kodak

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Kahn
 
[Hide Comment] This route is one of the single best pitches i've ever done!

We need more stars for this one. Apr 25, 2008
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] This route looks spectacular. Adding it to the "to-do" list. Feb 6, 2010
travis mcalpine
eagle river, ak
 
[Hide Comment] epic route.
cant wait to get back to Fremont canyon Mar 19, 2015
michalm
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Check out our Fremont Canyon trip report on our website with many quality photos of Wine & Roses! aspiringalpinist.com/trip-r… Jun 13, 2016
Backwards Eric
Fargo, ND
 
[Hide Comment] My recommended rack (C4/X4 sizes): #.1, #.2, #.3(2 or 3), #.4(2), #.5, #.75(3), #1(2), #2, #3

The beginning (right after the anchors) takes those .1 and .2 X4s. Right near the top was the crux for me. I used a purple link cam as my last piece there (I'm guessing it would be about #.4 sized) - note that the last few feet of the crack actually are the edge of a large flake on the right, so my advice is to examine that as you rap in and figure out ahead of time where you would be comfortable placing your last cam (i.e. place it lower so that if you fall on it, it won't expand the flake).

Very cool route! I liked how on that slanting crack right as the feet were running out, a ramp appears for your feet. Oct 25, 2018
Taylor Spiegelberg
WY
 
[Hide Comment] Bring a BD .3 to protect the opening moves. Apr 20, 2019
Timo G
Keene, NH
[Hide Comment] my personal opinion on this one is that it is the most asthetic line in the whole canyon; although the climbing felt choppy and not as flowy as say pale face or cheyenne. Still a great pitch that everyone has to do if they come to fremont thought Aug 16, 2020
Isaac Dority
Casper, WY
[Hide Comment] For anyone looking to top-rope this: if you set up the chains at the top of Wine and Roses as a directional anchor, and then run your rope to an anchor on the the bolts for cashew corner, your belayer can comfortably sit and watch your progress on the entire pitch. Jul 12, 2022
Preston Norris
 
[Hide Comment] I also think this is one of the best single pitch climbs I’ve ever done. Definitely hop on it if you are in Fremont Oct 8, 2023
Claire W
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb!
As of Aug 2024, this climb has 3 bolts at the top. It is FAR from the only route with a plaque I could find. Go to the furthest left pullout when driving in. Aug 6, 2024