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Routes in Common Courtesy Crag

Chlamydial Meat Pie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dave With His Pants Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reacharound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: John Tormalehto & Jim Belcer, 1994
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Tormalehto on May 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This excellent crack pitch is located in the center of the south face of the crag. Climb the steep fist crack, stemming off the small buttress forming the corner. After 25' of fisting, the crack opens up for the crux. The crux is 2 or 3 body lengths of meat and potatoes arm barring. At this point the crack changes to hands and thin hands for the last 15'. Belay on the ledge to the right (natural anchor).

Location

Descend off to the NW, minor down climbing.

Protection

Bring double hand-sized pieces, 3 or 4 #4 Camalots, and 1 or 2 #4.5 Camalots. Save some hand-sized pieces for the anchor.

Photos

This stout little pitch would be excellent training for the Crack of Fear or for anyone else breaking into the 5.10 realm of wide-crack climbing. May 29, 2006