PRINT: Rock Climb Duh Bulge, Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

Duh Bulge

5.11a, Trad,

Avg: 2.6 from 39 votes
FA: Tony Lusk, Glenn Todd
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Ruins

Description

Follow bolts over obvious bulge, then easier crack to chains. Very fun route in a great setting. Note: while this route is well-bolted down low, it is NOT a sport climb. There is an easier crack at the top that takes a bit of small gear.

Location

Route goes directly over the obvious large bulge on the right side of Ruins Left.

Protection

Mostly bolts. It is well-bolted up to & through the roof, but after that it requires gear. A couple small-med cams will help in the crack above bulge, or just run it out over easier (5.8-ish) terrain to the chains. 7 bolts total and mussy hooks at anchor. All hardware updated 2023, ASCA/CASA.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is me on Duh Bulge, a fun climb at The Ruins. Photo by Valerie Bednar.

Duh Bulge!!

Duh Bulge makes some climbers pause and consider.

MisterE - Eric S pulling the business roof on Duh Bulge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR

5.11a

This would be a really hard one if the climbing was sustained 11 up to duh bulge, but then it would be like 11c/d. As it stands I think 11a is fair for a short powerful sequence. FUN! I thought the pro above was pretty crappy, but I am not too experienced. One or two pieces should be enough to calm the mind. Dec 18, 2007

Braxton Norwood
Billings Montana

5.11-

Fun moves at the crux! Pro to 1" for the good crack above the bulge. FYI: it's 25' between the crux bolt and the next one, granted it's only 5.8ish after the crux. Feb 9, 2008

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ

5.11-

this climb could be 11b if the rest of the climbing were harder, but aside from the bulge itself there's nothing on this thing harder than 5.8 or 5.9. it's basically a 5.9 mixed route with a V2 boulder problem cutting it in half.

the crux is very well bolted, but you'll want some small stuff for a placement or two in the crack above the bulge. Feb 14, 2009

Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ

Great move over the Bulge! Good job Daryl on your onsight! Jan 10, 2011

Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ

5.11a

Thanks Angel! Nice route.. one move wonder but really fun. Mellow run to anchors past crux on small gear. Jan 10, 2011

Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ

5.11a R

Yeah, nice work on that Daryl!

PS For first-timers, this is a MIXED route! Jan 10, 2011

Brent Blevins
Chattanooga, TN

5.11-

Fun V2/3 boulder sequence sandwiched between 5.8 climbing. Bring a couple of small pieces to sow up the vertical seam on the right after surmounting the bulge. We used a Metolius 00 and 3 SLC. It's easy climbing up there but a fall before the single bolt would be heinous. Jan 31, 2019

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ

5.11-

why is it listed as sport? did someone add a bolt to the gear section up top? if not, someone is going to get hurt on this thing when they head up there with only draws and end up facing a 30-foot 5.8 runout to the anchor. Dec 18, 2020

Mike
Phoenix

5.11a

John Ruland I listed it as sport because it is mostly sport, and there is no option for 'mixed' or anything similar. I then put the gear needed in the protection section. However to alleviate any potential issues, I just edited the the description a bit to make the gear requirements more noticeable. Dec 18, 2020

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson

Mike from PHX. It is a trad route with mostly bolts and a little gear. No body reads anything so list it as trad so no one gets hurt. Dec 18, 2020

Mike
Phoenix

5.11a

1EricRhicard it was introduced to me as a sport climb, and considering the bolting frequency & placement, I had assumed it was rap-bolted like a sport climb. Unfortunately we can't ask Tony Lusk what he prefers.

However I don't want to see anyone get hurt, and if the locals (& the guidebook author) wish it to be listed as a trad route, then so be it. I made the change. Cheers! Dec 18, 2020

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson

Good job Mike. Tony did it with gear and once told me if I bolted the shorter lines to the right he would chop them. Haha. Tony was an awesome guy most of the time like the rest of us.. Dec 20, 2020