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Texas Sucks
5.9+,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 55
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Durango
> E Animas
> G. Apple Cider
Description
Climb the handcrack up into the right-facing corner. Continue up the corner almost to its top, traverse right around a prow and downclimb a short crack to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge.
[Hide Comment] We ran out of time before we got to this, but I really want to, I mean, I drove to Durango from the Southeast and the misery of the two hours I spent in the Texas panhandle were still fresh.
Oct 4, 2010
Edit: Most of Texas sucks... but climbing season is all year round. Don't be a hater; Texans are a vital part of Colorado's economy!
"Tourism is one of the largest industries in Colorado in terms of jobs, employing 144,300 people in the tourism sector. Overall, these employees earn $4.1 billion annually, contributing to state revenue through income taxes." -Dean Runyan Associates, The Economic Impact of Travel on Colorado, 2008
May 3, 2011
[Hide Comment] Great route! There's a bomber cam stuck in the crack about 2/3rds up. My partner didn't communicate this to me, and I expended quite a bit of energy trying to free it up.
Dec 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Not sure what sucks more, Texas or the anchors to this route....
The current anchor situation for this route makes this great route unappealing due to needing to downclimb and traverse hard right to reach the anchors. While this is unusual but okay for leading, this can create a dangerous situation for the person following on TR as one has to downclimb with the anchor below that could result in a fall onto the ledge. With the anchors being the way they are now, someone cannot lead and clean, and relies on someone following behind to retrieve gear exposing themselves to the dangerous situation.
I and other climbers in the area agree that there should be a separate anchor for Texas Sucks that does not share the anchor with Easy To Remember to make this a safer, more enjoyable climb. I would be more than happy to fund the anchors and install if consensus is to install anchors.
Feb 21, 2022
[Hide Comment] Learn how to protect your follower on such routes. There's bomber pro in both Sweeney's cracks and plenty of options for the easy downclimb to the ledge. This would no longer be Texas Sucks if an anchor was added to the top of the corner. It would be EA route #27 sanitized for the masses.
Mar 11, 2022
Being that a climber cannot climb this and clean the route him/herself and relies on a partner following due to the anchors being so far right speaks for itself that this should have its own set of anchors.
Apr 11, 2022
[Hide Comment] The traverse and downlead is fun, interesting, and part of the climb. Don't diminish the route for convenience sake please, a little adventure is ok. Climbing does not always need to be as convenient as the gym.
Apr 10, 2023
Avg: 2.7 from 55
votes
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Golden, Colorado
Ramstein, DE
"Tourism is one of the largest industries in Colorado in terms of jobs, employing 144,300 people in the tourism sector. Overall, these employees earn $4.1 billion annually, contributing to state revenue through income taxes."
-Dean Runyan Associates, The Economic Impact of Travel on Colorado, 2008 May 3, 2011
CO
Arvada
Mammoth, CA
SW CO
The current anchor situation for this route makes this great route unappealing due to needing to downclimb and traverse hard right to reach the anchors. While this is unusual but okay for leading, this can create a dangerous situation for the person following on TR as one has to downclimb with the anchor below that could result in a fall onto the ledge. With the anchors being the way they are now, someone cannot lead and clean, and relies on someone following behind to retrieve gear exposing themselves to the dangerous situation.
I and other climbers in the area agree that there should be a separate anchor for Texas Sucks that does not share the anchor with Easy To Remember to make this a safer, more enjoyable climb. I would be more than happy to fund the anchors and install if consensus is to install anchors. Feb 21, 2022
SW CO
Being that a climber cannot climb this and clean the route him/herself and relies on a partner following due to the anchors being so far right speaks for itself that this should have its own set of anchors. Apr 11, 2022