Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), Grade III
FA: Albert R. Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis, Jo Deustchbein, Bee Rogers, July 24, 1916
Page Views: 11,197 total · 51/month
Shared By: Kevin Currigan on May 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

24 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

According to the guidebook I had, you simply hike to the base of the large buttress and start up going hand over hand following the easiest line. That describes it fairly well. However, it is very easy to get into more than 5 easy. I also found the rock to be good at times and really scary at others. When you get within 300' of the top you can continue to the top of the east pinnacle or traverse into the top of the NW couloir to get round to the southeast side of the peak for the finish.

Location Suggest change

The first time I attempted this we followed the ridge from the Humbolt Saddle-bad idea. It undulates over steep ground with huge plates of loose rock. The second time I took the direct line out of the cirque right up to the buttress. The first part of the line seems to be easy to locate; right at the start of the 4th class. However, staying on 4th class rock proved difficult for me as I spent much of my time on exposed 5.6 type choss. Getting off via the standard south face route is best. Going down this thing looked really hairy. Of course, then you have to hike up 600' to Broken Hand Pass. You could also traverse over to Crestone Needle as was my plan. However, that fizzled when I realized that was going to be a bit too much of a day for me.

Protection Suggest change

I would say a partner, a light rack, and a rope would be a good idea. Make sure the batteries in your head lamp are fresh. Study the route off of the peak, because this one really wanders.