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Apple Cider

5.8, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 92 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Durango > E Animas > G. Apple Cider

Description

P1. Start up a large, right-facing flake, and climb to below a roof. Move up and right past the roof to gain another crack. Follow this to a chimney which leads to a ledge on the left and a bolted anchor.

P2. Climb up broken rock to the top of a boulder/flake, step across to the crack and take it to another bolted anchor at the top.

Descent: two rappels will get you back on the ground. Watch the rope pull after the first rappel, there is some loose stuff that could come down.

Location

This route starts just left of the obvious corner of Punta Magna.

Protection

Standard East Animas rack - #3 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first pitch.
[Hide Photo] The first pitch.
P1 of Apple Cider follows the various cracks up through the chimney to a ledge at the very top of the photo.
[Hide Photo] P1 of Apple Cider follows the various cracks up through the chimney to a ledge at the very top of the photo.
P1 from below the chimney. Long slings help to avoid rope drag.
[Hide Photo] P1 from below the chimney. Long slings help to avoid rope drag.
Jason Rite nearing the chimney on the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Jason Rite nearing the chimney on the first pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jay baichi
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The beginning was edgy, and spicy without any good gear. I was a little gripped. But I could have been off route. Aug 6, 2007
Easy-E
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Jay the start follows a large flake. You probably did the opening moves to Punta Magna and then went left to Apple Cider. The actual route is not PG-13.

This climb has the classic east a awkward section in the form of a flared chimney to a mantel. Nov 7, 2007
knowbuddy Buddy
 
[Hide Comment] This route is so much fun. Lots of variation. You can pull through the roof in the beginning or go around to the flakes. In the middle there is a hand crack or to the left there is a great finger crack. You can always clip the chain to the right below the chimney, but then you miss the real fun! Jan 30, 2011
IanA
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Seth, the anchor is on the ledge to the left at the top of the chimney. The moves are funky and tenuous for the grade. I think I do it different every time. If I am remembering correctly, you can get high in the chimney with good feet on the right hand side and then mantel out onto the ledge. Mar 9, 2011
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Moving through the chimney and mantel is crazy fun and a super interesting puzzle to solve. May 27, 2012
Gee Monet
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Found two pieces of rock gear on this route today, 11/13/12. PM me with what they were and the markings, and I'll get them back to you.

Edit: 12/13/2012 - After one month without claim, gear has been passed on to someone who needs it/will use it. Thanks for your generous contribution. Nov 13, 2012
eli poss
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Hey Durango, I lost a #2 Camalot with a yellow CAMP Nano 22 somewhere at East A. last weekend. I may have left it at the base of Apple Cider in the dark or it may have fallen out of my backpack when it came unzipped on the way down the trail. It wasn't at the base of Apple Cider today, so I think it may have fallen out of my pack. It can identified by blue nail polish on the bottom of the axle in between the lobes.

If you happen to find it and are feeling generous, I'll offer a good reward and you may find a new partner who's always stoked to go climbing. Thanks, and have a great Thanksgiving Breaking Durango. Nov 20, 2015
-mn
[Hide Comment] The 300 yr old juniper at the base of the route has been killed. Bummer...it made for a great shade belay. Cliffside environmental destruction continues, here and at lots of other crags. Feb 3, 2023
Natalie M
Aspen, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A BD #4 was definitely good to have in the chimney, even walked it a bit, so another #4 or #5 would be nice but not mandatory. Nov 6, 2023