Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Leo Henson & Paul Boulet
Page Views: 31,157 total · 144/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

"Popeye" is one of THE most popular routes at The Pit.

There are two pitches to this climb, with the option to lower off the first, or continue up to the second.

(P1 - 5.9) ~45 feet through well protected glue-ins. Climb through chalked jugs, huecos, pockets, and optional handcrack to jam below the lip. Very popular with moderate climbers as a warm-up or beginning lead. Just over the lip of the wall are Mussy Hooks to lower off for a ~45' or so, quality single-pitch sport lead. They also serve to anchor P2.

(P2 - 5.10d) 5 bolts, ~55 feet. This pitch is responsible for the 10d rating. A few relatively easy moves get you to the first bolt, then up past bolts two and three to the dihedral crux. Here there is a sizeable runout up to bolt #4. Enjoy the exposure and pull up onto a fantastic ledge, and then carefully work up to the fourth bolt. One last bolt on easier edges to the anchor, equipped with older-style, non-wire gate hooks that are still in good shape.

A hanging belay from the top of P2 will get your follower up, and then a 60m rope will make the rap to the ground. Tie knots: there isn't much rope left to spare. 

It is possible to link both pitches into one, extending draws being very useful if you do so. 

Take care when belaying a leader on this route as you could both take a heckuva fall if they pile off the starting moves before clipping the first bolt.

Location Suggest change

Popeye is the left-most route that starts off the lower level of the Mall Wall. Super pocketed face.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, chains with Mussy hooks. A 60m rope can rap both pitches.