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Jasper's Dihedral

5.8, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 83 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Blue Mounds SP… > Prairie Walls Area > 5. Saturday Buttress

Description

A fun route. The bottom of the climb is fairly easy 5.6ish. The real fun begins at the top where you'll be glad you brought that big piece.
  • RCM&W #67, p.46.

Location

This route lies in the obvious corner first visible from the approach trail. It lies to the left of Ivy Right and the right of Gulliver's travels.

Protection

Nuts, Hexes, Cams including a larger piece such as #11 BD hexentric, #4 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro. Standard top rope setup.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris treggE was right!
[Hide Photo] Chris treggE was right!
Saturday Buttress
[Hide Photo] Saturday Buttress
Clay staying in the dihedral crack on Jasper to practice crack technique he definitely does not get in the gym.
[Hide Photo] Clay staying in the dihedral crack on Jasper to practice crack technique he definitely does not get in the gym.
Onsight lead of Jasper's Dihedral (5.8) on July 17, 2016.
[Hide Photo] Onsight lead of Jasper's Dihedral (5.8) on July 17, 2016.
7/19/09
[Hide Photo] 7/19/09
Charlie sending on a lovely summer evening.
[Hide Photo] Charlie sending on a lovely summer evening.
Onsight lead of Jasper's Dihedral (5.8) on July 17, 2016.
[Hide Photo] Onsight lead of Jasper's Dihedral (5.8) on July 17, 2016.
Near the top on this bluemounds classic
[Hide Photo] Near the top on this bluemounds classic
View from top of route
[Hide Photo] View from top of route
Such beautiful... Rock.  My better half about 1/2 way up Jasper's Dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Such beautiful... Rock. My better half about 1/2 way up Jasper's Dihedral.
Andy Olson on lead.
[Hide Photo] Andy Olson on lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I gave this three stars; I think it is probably one of the best routes in the area, but it begs the question: does that alone merit four stars, or would you compare it to other climbs in other areas? I'm not sure I could say that this route was on a par with, say, Dark Shadows at Red Rocks or the Kor-Ingalls Route on Castleton Tower. In fact, I'm not sure that I could say this route was as good as Cat in the Hat (which I also gave three stars), but I would think it's certainly worth more than two. Ian, what criteria do you use to rate routes from dissimilar areas? Oct 16, 2006
Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Hey Jon, I've also wondered what to do about star ratings. I have had a bit of an internal debate as to rate relative to the area or all the climbs I've ever done. It is really hard to compare two climbs such as Cat and the Hat (multi-pitch sandstone) to Jasper's Dihedral (45ft quartzite). So I try to give star ratings relative to the area but also keep in mind the big picture of climbs I've done elsewhere. So some routes I have given three or four stars simply because they are the best climbs in the area but would probably be only two stars when compared to other areas. That's what I like about mountain project though is that everyone has there say in ratings and number of stars. That being said I think Jasper's is worthy of the three stars I gave it. Its probably up there as one of the best routes at blue mounds, but i didn't think it didn't quite deserved four stars given the perspective of some other routes that I've done, and because its not all that sustained. It is a fun climb with an exciting finish, and in my opinion definitely worth doing. Nov 16, 2006
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] I wasn't overly impressed by Jasper's Dihedral. I headed out to Blue Mounds having never climbing before and knowing of the route because I was told it's a great line and is named after one of my professors at the University of Minnesota - Mankato. After climbing it I would only give it 2 stars. This is because I love climbing cracks and dihedrals and this one just had too much hype for me. There wasn't any amazing crack technique needed and it wasn't sustained. If you head for it without any expectations it might be more exciting for you. Nov 18, 2008
Riggs
 
[Hide Comment] The last part if kind of awkward but challenging. Might be hard for shorter people but it rocked. May 4, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] How big we talkin - #5, #6 camalot? Sep 8, 2009
chris tregge
Madison WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A #11 BD hex protected the topout pretty well. Sep 9, 2009
Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] My first trad lead in 1989 with 1/2 set of stoppers and a 1/2 set of hexes. Couldn't afford a full set. The #11 hex came in real handy at the top! Dec 7, 2010
James Anderson
Minneapolis, Minnesota
 
[Hide Comment] We hit this first in our blue mounds trip. Setting the TR was easy and the route was a blast. I'm glad we warmed up with this one and I'm excited to lead it next time. Jan 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] i would say this route stays 5.6/7 until the 5.8 bit in the last five feet. protects well with minimal gear-- two-three chock-stones can be threaded. Aug 13, 2018
Brandon White
Breckenridge
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. I think the last section of this is almost identical to Via Apia at Devil's Lake, except possibly even a little easier since there are more options for feet. Aug 11, 2020