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Routes in 5. Saturday Buttress

Alexandra David Neal TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Becky's Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black and Blue Bulge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gulliver's Travels TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard Rock Cafe TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ivy Right T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jasper's Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Stump T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Revenge of the Nerds TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,176 total, 23/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

A fun route. The bottom of the climb is fairly easy 5.6ish. The real fun begins at the top where you'll be glad you brought that big piece.
  • RCM&W #67, p.46.

Location

This route lies in the obvious corner first visible from the approach trail. It lies to the left of Ivy Right and the right of Gulliver's travels.

Protection

Nuts, Hexes, Cams including a larger piece such as #11 BD hexentric, #4 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro. Standard top rope setup.
Good gear throughout the route, listen to other comments regarding the 11 hex. FYI the upper thirdish crack is deeper and very possible to lose gear in if dropped and it takes a bad bounce on lead or building an anchor on top. Jul 22, 2012
James Anderson
Minneapolis, Minnesota
 
James Anderson   Minneapolis, Minnesota
 
We hit this first in our blue mounds trip. Setting the TR was easy and the route was a blast. I'm glad we warmed up with this one and I'm excited to lead it next time. Jan 2, 2011
My first trad lead in 1989 with 1/2 set of stoppers and a 1/2 set of hexes. Couldn't afford a full set. The #11 hex came in real handy at the top! Dec 7, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.8
A #11 BD hex protected the topout pretty well. Sep 9, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
How big we talkin - #5, #6 camalot? Sep 8, 2009
Riggs
 
Riggs  
 
The last part if kind of awkward but challenging. Might be hard for shorter people but it rocked. May 4, 2009
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
I wasn't overly impressed by Jasper's Dihedral. I headed out to Blue Mounds having never climbing before and knowing of the route because I was told it's a great line and is named after one of my professors at the University of Minnesota - Mankato. After climbing it I would only give it 2 stars. This is because I love climbing cracks and dihedrals and this one just had too much hype for me. There wasn't any amazing crack technique needed and it wasn't sustained. If you head for it without any expectations it might be more exciting for you. Nov 18, 2008
Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
 
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
 
Hey Jon, I've also wondered what to do about star ratings. I have had a bit of an internal debate as to rate relative to the area or all the climbs I've ever done. It is really hard to compare two climbs such as Cat and the Hat (multi-pitch sandstone) to Jasper's Dihedral (45ft quartzite). So I try to give star ratings relative to the area but also keep in mind the big picture of climbs I've done elsewhere. So some routes I have given three or four stars simply because they are the best climbs in the area but would probably be only two stars when compared to other areas. That's what I like about mountain project though is that everyone has there say in ratings and number of stars. That being said I think Jasper's is worthy of the three stars I gave it. Its probably up there as one of the best routes at blue mounds, but i didn't think it didn't quite deserved four stars given the perspective of some other routes that I've done, and because its not all that sustained. It is a fun climb with an exciting finish, and in my opinion definitely worth doing. Nov 16, 2006
Jon Cannon  
 
I gave this three stars; I think it is probably one of the best routes in the area, but it begs the question: does that alone merit four stars, or would you compare it to other climbs in other areas? I'm not sure I could say that this route was on a par with, say, Dark Shadows at Red Rocks or the Kor-Ingalls Route on Castleton Tower. In fact, I'm not sure that I could say this route was as good as Cat in the Hat (which I also gave three stars), but I would think it's certainly worth more than two. Ian, what criteria do you use to rate routes from dissimilar areas? Oct 16, 2006