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Happiness

5.12b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 220 votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Mondo Beyondo > Downpour Wall
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Description

This route is the Bomb - not a bomb. Classic pockets and crimps on good stone, continuous, no great rests, just great movement. Supreme pump to the chains - you must do this line.

This route was formerly known as Happiness in Slavery, named after the NIN song of the same name.  It has been changed at the request of the FA.

Location

Right of Crown Prince Abdullah .12d and left of Head Like A Hole .12a/b.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

willem becker holds onto the happiness
[Hide Photo] willem becker holds onto the happiness
Tony T. climbing.
[Hide Photo] Tony T. climbing.
Happiness
[Hide Photo] Happiness
Finding a desperate shake before taking it to the chains.
[Hide Photo] Finding a desperate shake before taking it to the chains.
Discovering happiness .
[Hide Photo] Discovering happiness .
Later in the day. Happiness.
[Hide Photo] Later in the day. Happiness.
Chris Anthony slaving away, while Kona steals some spotlight.
[Hide Photo] Chris Anthony slaving away, while Kona steals some spotlight.
Stow K. Happy
[Hide Photo] Stow K. Happy
Amazing route.  Felt shoulder intensive.
[Hide Photo] Amazing route. Felt shoulder intensive.
Low on the route.  Felt like a power endurance crux, just couldn't stop moving. <br>
<br>
Photo by Rayna McGinnis.<br>
[Hide Photo] Low on the route. Felt like a power endurance crux, just couldn't stop moving. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.
from here it's just raceing the pump clock to the top
[Hide Photo] from here it's just raceing the pump clock to the top
The first crux comes right off the ground
[Hide Photo] The first crux comes right off the ground

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] This route is sooo much fun, big moves on big holds on a big overhang
hang on for life, its spicy at the anchor Sep 18, 2009
Pat Mac
Bishop, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] 5 star line for sure. Soft for the grade but a fun OS for sure.Plenty of rests all over it and it's not that steep. But just enough for clean falls which is perfect.
Jul 15, 2013
Jim Lawyer

  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Having done a bunch of 12s at Ten Sleep and Wild Iris, I fail to understand the hype of this route. I found it hard for the grade, and a couple of the pockets bit me. Ouch! Amazing wall though. Aug 17, 2016
Simon W
Nowhere Land
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb it is. 12A it is not.

It’s beautiful natural stone with just enough to keep you going in a thought provoking way. Sep 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] Full value, would be a proud onsight! Sep 3, 2018
The Morse-Bradys
Lander, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Hardware update 2018 Feb 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] This route is just OK. Don't buy into it. Awkward painful and only a few really cool/unique moves. Kinda felt that way about all of Ten Sleep though it's just ok, good at best, oops Jun 13, 2019
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The original route name is also a literary Reference by Trent Reznor to the Prelude written for 'The Story Of O'.
The Video to that song was an enactment of the book 'The Torture Garden.'
Apparently Reznor is well read and gave a bit of thought to previous considerations of what he was addressing in that song. Jun 29, 2020
Jeremy Stocks
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] The original name of this route, as most know, is a NIN reference. The song has nothing to do with slavery in the context that this new political/social movement is hoping to address. Trent, like in many of his songs, is having an internal dialog with himself about the pros and cons of becoming a slave to industry, government, your own mind, capitalism, credit cards... fill in the blank. The theme of blissful ignorance rings throughout. For the virtue signaling few that are out there hoping to level everything to be 100% PC in the climbing realm, unfortunately for you, context matters. The irony of this song being the naive target is quite laughable. I'm curious to see just how far the PC hammer will swing... Jul 7, 2020
Adam bloc
San Golderino, Calirado
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Was on this in Sep2020 and it still felt benchmark 12b. Saw no breakage, guess it wasn't obvious enough, bummer. Jan 27, 2021
Allot Raddishes
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] never felt more pumped. this thing is gooooood. 5 raddishes. not bummer Mar 10, 2021
Andy Bandos
CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Most of this rock is bullet and the movement is great. However, there is some obvious rock scars above bolt 3. You know, the type where the chalk stops on a perfect fracture line. There is a small gaston that works but Ive heard a few people talk about ripping a hold off in this section.

I personally don't understand why people call this 12b. It is harder than any other 12b I've done at Ten Sleep, Rifle, Flatirons, etc. I'm calling it solid 12c. Or, maybe it's my true anti-style? Aug 2, 2022
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. But it felt very reachy/cruxy for me. (I am about 5'5) Not just bottom section but many places. I remember making some deadpoint moves to reach pockets, then greeted by several sharp pockets/holds. I am glad I got on this route but my finger tips were destroyed after 2 runs. Sep 4, 2022
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated 6/27/23 by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative. Hardware provided by the Bighorn Climbers Coalition & ASCA.
Your membership & donations to both associations go directly toward keeping routes safe #loweroffinitiative Jun 28, 2023