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Happiness
5.12b,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 220
votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Mondo Beyondo
> Downpour Wall
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This route is the Bomb - not a bomb. Classic pockets and crimps on good stone, continuous, no great rests, just great movement. Supreme pump to the chains - you must do this line.
This route was formerly known as Happiness in Slavery, named after the NIN song of the same name. It has been changed at the request of the FA.
Location
Right of Crown Prince Abdullah .12d and left of Head Like A Hole .12a/b.
Protection
9 bolts to anchors.
[Hide Photo] Finding a desperate shake before taking it to the chains.
[Hide Photo] Amazing route. Felt shoulder intensive.
[Hide Photo] Low on the route. Felt like a power endurance crux, just couldn't stop moving. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.
[Hide Photo] from here it's just raceing the pump clock to the top
[Hide Photo] The first crux comes right off the ground
chatfield lake ,co
hang on for life, its spicy at the anchor Sep 18, 2009
Bishop, CA
Jul 15, 2013
Nowhere Land
It’s beautiful natural stone with just enough to keep you going in a thought provoking way. Sep 2, 2018
WY
Lander, WY
Around Boulder, CO
The Video to that song was an enactment of the book 'The Torture Garden.'
Apparently Reznor is well read and gave a bit of thought to previous considerations of what he was addressing in that song. Jun 29, 2020
Golden, CO
San Golderino, Calirado
CO
I personally don't understand why people call this 12b. It is harder than any other 12b I've done at Ten Sleep, Rifle, Flatirons, etc. I'm calling it solid 12c. Or, maybe it's my true anti-style? Aug 2, 2022
Ten Sleep WY
Your membership & donations to both associations go directly toward keeping routes safe #loweroffinitiative Jun 28, 2023