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Routes in Angle Iron Slabs

It Matters Not T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Leftraction S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Purgatory TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Roadkill T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Roadside Attraction S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Schvondelagunst T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trifle Dicey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Dan McGee & Loren Trout, 1983
Page Views: 818 total, 6/month
Shared By: Andrew Ingraham on May 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is another mediocre climb on the climber's right side of these rocks. Follow the easy, 5.6 -5.7, slanting finger crack to the nasty bolt, then head straight up the slab or to the right for a couple of 9 slab moves. After the short section of slab, itÂ’s a cakewalk for another 40 or so feet to the top. An additional 5.10 variation goes to the left of the bolt.

Protection

Stoppers and small cams. Good tree to set up a toprope anchor up top.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
The "nasty" bolt on this climb has been replaced and is no longer "nasty". The newest guidebook lists two bolts on this climb, but there is only one. Jul 19, 2015
MountainManny
Idaho Springs
 
MountainManny   Idaho Springs
 
There are anchors and quicklinks just below the tree. If you anchor off the tree or use the gear, you will still need a 60m to lower all the way.

Anyone missing a folding pocketknife? Found just above the anchors for this climb. Jan 22, 2013
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.9+
I think this can be a fun route to lead if your in the mood to work on harder Splat friction climbing. Aim left after the crack, then go to the right edge after the tree for a full, friction experience. Apr 16, 2007
Buff Johnson
  5.9
Buff Johnson  
  5.9
I favor this climb a little more than described (but, I can see why it would be considered a one star/mediocre/ok). For me, it offers good positive crimp moves on a wild lead and think this short slab offers good friction practice & mental prep for other splat climbs. Going way to the left of the bolt (straight up the slab from the seam) seems harder than .10, but good to work on TR (it's hard to figure what the .10b is, but I also think it's a little left of the bolt as given in the description, the .9 section is obvious). Jul 6, 2006