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Keyhole Direct

5.9, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 48 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Interstate SP (… > Keyhole Area
Warning Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year. DetailsDrop down

Description

A direct line of the keyhole route. Instead of heading right into the pod continue strait up to the top on small holds. A very fun route.
  • RCM&W #60, P.167.

Location

Immediately to the left of the standard keyhole route.

Protection

The pro dissapears after deviating from the standard route so I would not recommend leading, unless you can find something I didn't see. Same top rope setup as keyhole. Nuts, and webbing for the large boulders.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

me leading keyhole direct<br>
Photo:Taylor Krosbakken
[Hide Photo] me leading keyhole direct Photo:Taylor Krosbakken

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Philip Carlton
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] This is actually a really fun and exciting lead -- in fact, you can protect it decently without using the crack in the keyhole at all (thus keeping to the direct route in the strictest sense).

The pro doesn't quite go away after moving left below the keyhole. Keep your eye out for the few horizontal pods that take TCUs (C3's).

Gear: Full set of TCU's, .4 Camalot. Small nuts for the bottom. Jun 2, 2008
Chuck Siebsen
Clemmons, NC
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route yesterday and totally loved it. From the same toprope setup you can climb the easier (5.6) route to the right or move left for a 5.9 or further over for 5.11. A great choice when you have climbers of differing ability climbing together. The weatherbeaten face has several well hidden holds, but follow the chalk. Try to avoid the frog hiding in a crack 10 feet from the top :) Jul 20, 2012