Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Keyhole Area

Double Cracks a.k.a. Hamburger Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamburger Helper TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Horn, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keyhole Direct TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keyhole direct direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mongoosed T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reason to Believe T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,336 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A direct line of the keyhole route. Instead of heading right into the pod continue strait up to the top on small holds. A very fun route.
  • RCM&W #60, P.167.

Location

Immediately to the left of the standard keyhole route.

Protection

The pro dissapears after deviating from the standard route so I would not recommend leading, unless you can find something I didn't see. Same top rope setup as keyhole. Nuts, and webbing for the large boulders.

Photos

Chuck Siebsen
Clemmons, NC
Chuck Siebsen   Clemmons, NC
Climbed this route yesterday and totally loved it. From the same toprope setup you can climb the easier (5.6) route to the right or move left for a 5.9 or further over for 5.11. A great choice when you have climbers of differing ability climbing together. The weatherbeaten face has several well hidden holds, but follow the chalk. Try to avoid the frog hiding in a crack 10 feet from the top :) Jul 20, 2012
Philip Carlton
  5.9 PG13
Philip Carlton  
  5.9 PG13
This is actually a really fun and exciting lead -- in fact, you can protect it decently without using the crack in the keyhole at all (thus keeping to the direct route in the strictest sense).

The pro doesn't quite go away after moving left below the keyhole. Keep your eye out for the few horizontal pods that take TCUs (C3's).

Gear: Full set of TCU's, .4 Camalot. Small nuts for the bottom. Jun 2, 2008