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Routes in Lower Level - Right

Adoption S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Burros Don't Gamble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burros Might Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Foe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friend S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heavy Hitter, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M & M S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Michael Angelo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightmare on Crude Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychobilly S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
She's Deadly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Moore
Page Views: 7,334 total, 52/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on May 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route starts out climbing a right leaning crack (crux) and continues through some large huecos and ledges. In the Handren guidebook, this route is referred to as "Need to Rest," but Mike's original name was Idiot Parade.

Location

This is the last route on the right side of the lower corridor, if you enter from the bottom. It is located just before the dividing boulders.

Protection

Several bolts up to new chains.
12/14/2016 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Idiot Parade (Aka Need to Rest). The first and fifth protection bolts were removed and replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts. Dec 14, 2016
bmb
bmb  
dyno variation is super fun! Nov 29, 2016
Chase D
  5.10c
Chase D  
  5.10c
The right leaning crack at the start is difficult. Much better to go for the dyno on the large hueco. After that, it's all good holds. Feb 4, 2016
Sol Cantwell
  5.10c
Sol Cantwell  
  5.10c
Super cool holds and some interesting moves to the top get you to the top. May 30, 2012
Maxm
  5.10b
Maxm  
  5.10b
Ignore your gut reaction to follow the crack past the second bolt. traverse out right to large hueco, take a breath, and sprint on up. Apr 11, 2012
mike74  
Great climb. Pumpy, but thanks to the knee bar you can get a perfect rest... Mar 6, 2012
Deceptively pumpy but easily one of the best routes in the Corridor (like others have said). The kneebar (or double kneebar) makes for a great no-hands rest experience for the intermediate climber Feb 26, 2012
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
Great route... make sure your feet are set and GO BIG! Great holds
higher up for those power moves, save your strength! Feb 8, 2012
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
  5.10c
If you can make it to the hueco your set. the holds after are surprisingly good but that's hard to tell by looking from below. Such a fun route! May 14, 2010
dnoB ekiM
  5.10d
dnoB ekiM  
  5.10d
Good Eye Mr. Moore! This is perhaps the best 5.10 in the Black Corridor...IMHO. This route is surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb....especially since it has a no-hands rest in the hueco. Oct 17, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c/d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c/d
I really enjoyed the moves on this route! We had no idea what it was but the big hueco looked appealing so we had to give 'er a go. The upper edges looked like they could be slopers but are quite positive. This is nice because it feels steep! The knee bar in the hueco is cool. Apr 10, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Great route but keep moving as it can be a pumpy little thing! Once you make it to the large obvious hueco you should be home free! Aug 14, 2006