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Routes in (r) Pleasure Palace

Aggro Bumbly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bop Till You Drop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Wicked Thing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Matthew 7:24 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Scare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sea of Green S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watermark S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Be Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xanadu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Pajunas Jon Sprecher 1989
Page Views: 1,310 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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56 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

In the lower section of The Pleasure Palace this fun face makes for a good warm up on a hot summer morning.

This is the right most of the routes in the lower section, it is the first area of decent looking rock uphill from Mesa Verde.

Follow face holds through a series of smallbulges to a bolted anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

The lower tier of the Pleasure Palace, the right most of three bolted routes.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts to rap anchor

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John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
This description is a bit confusing. "Red Scare" is the *middle* bolted climb on the lower Pleasure Palace wall. The right-most route on the lower wall is "Watermark." "Red Scare" starts up a steep, thin section located in the middle of the face and pretty much goes straight up to a small overhang/corner which is passed on the right before arriving at the chain anchors. "We Be Toys" is the 5.10a to the left of "Red Scare." All three of these routes provide fun, moderate face climbing. The lower Pleasure Palace wall is in the shade through early afternoon (maybe 2 pm) in the summer and stays shady most of the day into the Fall (September.) Hike out by going to the top and descending the "Misery Ridge" trail in the late afternoon and you'll catch some shade on the descent when it's hot. Sep 19, 2011
I thought this was a much better route than Watermark, though a fall going to the 2nd bolt looks like it would generate quite a leftwards swing. May 22, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Cool looking crag with good rock. Very palace-like. Definitely stick clip the first bolt as going straight up is not 10b moves and not much to hold on to, but you can approach from the side. Hardest part was between 5th and 6th bolts? getting over a bulge with small footholds.You could climb the 5.9 and set up a TR on the 10b as the anchors are like a foot apart. Pleasure Palace seems like a low traffic area, good warm-up area for Mesa Verde, and it has a good range of moderate climbs. Apr 30, 2018

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