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The 5.8+ Crack

5.8+ R, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
FA: Flagstaff old school
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Mt Elden Crags > W Elden > Downtown

Description

Located about 100' south of the fence line is a slab split by two cracks. The left crack goes at 5.6 while the right is about 5.8+. Both routes end at a rounded ledge sitting under a steep prow. (This prow is a 12.a TR called Landwhale.)

To climb Unnamed 5.8+, start up a 5.easy slab trending right to the base of the right crack. Climb the crack until it ends, place some gear, then ascend the runout slab above to the finishing ledge. This slab can be scary and a little dangerous. The best holds are a little left of the initial crack line. Going this direction keeps the grade at 5.8+. Staying a little right of the initial crack line is more like 5.9 slab.

Descent - Downclimb 4th and easy 5th class terrain in the gully to the left of this route. A better option is to climb one of the excellent routes above this crack to the clifftop.

Protection

Half Set Stoppers
.5 - #2 Camalot
Draws/Slings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lower right lieback/thin hands/deep fingers crack to slab (climb left of crack exit for most positive holds).
[Hide Photo] Lower right lieback/thin hands/deep fingers crack to slab (climb left of crack exit for most positive holds).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] If you're interested in rope soloing this & the left 5.6 crack you can set up a bottom anchor in a deep flaring pod just below the aforementioned 5.6 with 2x #1 & 1x #2 C4's. Apr 18, 2014