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Routes in The Love Shack

Chunky Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hasta La Vista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hot Buttered Soul S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Semper Fi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleight of Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slippery Avocado S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinger, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Superchunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 952 total · 6/month
Shared By: richard magill on May 21, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Killer route - overhanging and pumpy with a smorgasbard of all kind of holds from crimps to sidepulls to pockets to slopers.

Start up the dicey beginning moves (11a) to the first bolt (about 12 feet up). You may want to stick clip the first bolt - I didn't have a stick but I was wishing I did. There are a couple of places where you can hook a heel around the arete - other than that you won't get much rest.

A series of hard-to-see holds lead to a bomber sidepull seam. Casting off from there is hard to do- you won't want to leave this great hold.

Slopers lead to the chains. Fun!

Location [Suggest Change]

The crag is split by a big dihedral. Left of the dihedral is a nice sport route. Superchunk is the next route left of there, on the arete. It starts out on the overhanging wall just behind the tree.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to anchors

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