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Routes in Left Flank

B-Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Tide S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bushed Coyote S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morning Glory S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sumac Route, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wet Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Murray and Hinds 1997
Page Views: 1,729 total, 12/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on May 21, 2006
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Climb up a face with some thin moves to a roof. Pull the roof at a small notch, the continue up the face to the anchors.

Location

Just right of Bushed Coyote, towards the left side of the Left Flank.

Protection

6 bolts to open shut anchors.

Photos

S. Lucas
CA
 
S. Lucas   CA
 
Fun short route. In my opinion the rock quality and moves are some of the best on the left flank, but I haven't tried Bushed Coyote or Black Tide. I'll have to go back for those.

No sandbag in my option. Perhaps more of a 10a if anything. Fun moves, I wish it were longer! Jan 19, 2017
ucidoug.....while the rock (rhyolite) in the Santa Monica Mountains isn't the best, it's unlikely that a critical hold broke off. Wet Bush is a bit of a sandbag at 5.10b. Apr 12, 2013
ucidoug
Corona del Mar, CA
ucidoug   Corona del Mar, CA
Climbed Wet Bush on Sat. I was wondering if a hold broke above the roof? I felt it was very thin and climbed much harder than it's 10.b rating. Just curious. Mar 11, 2013
Maidy
  5.10b
Maidy  
  5.10b
This is actually a fun climb with a thoughtful entrance moves and a tricky mini-roof which foils a lot of onsights. I agree the bolt-placement is not ideal, but a confident leader can usually work around it. Mar 10, 2012
We had similar concerns, but luckily no falls. Would the FA party consider rebolting the route to make it safe? Mar 4, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
5.10b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
5.10b
The crux moves through the overhang are reachy and pumpy. The bolt placements above the roof are not ideal. I once caught a 15-footer that my partner took from above the small roof. Sep 30, 2008