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Routes in Sky Valley

A Change Is Gonna Come S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chain Lightning S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climb It, Change Sides S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Driller on the Loose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Exposure in the Making S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fire Inside, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Footwork Forensics S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hunger For The Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serial Driller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sky Diamond S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Steps Forward One Step Back S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wind Dance S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Tony Lusk, Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 967 total · 7/month
Shared By: A.P.T. on May 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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This climb is right of (Exposure In The Making) and can be toproped from the same anchors.


Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
the offending bolt has been replaced with a new 3/8" stainless steel bolt. the new placement is approximately 8" right and 4" down from where the old one was, making it a much easier clip for a person my size (i'm 5'10" with an ape index of 0 or less).

it may still be a difficult clip for a short person but i couldn't be 100% sure about the rock quality further right so i had to settle. even so, the route is much improved now that the crux is the actual climbing instead of struggling to clip a bolt. Sep 7, 2015
Chris Horton
Encampment, WY
Chris Horton   Encampment, WY
Going straight up the bolt line puts this thing in the mid-11 range. The good stuff is about 4-5 feet right of it. May 21, 2012
jonathan horst
Tucson, AZ
jonathan horst   Tucson, AZ
hmm, i zigged and zagged a bit but never got more than 5' away from the bolts...kept it about 10d. Jun 8, 2011
Could be that it was done ground up or the rock sounded hollow when they tapped it with the hammer prior to drilling. Or it could be they F....d up the bolt placement. Aug 4, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
the climbing isn't bad but the bolt placement on this one (ie 5 feet away from where you're doing the moves) makes you waste time and energy wondering if you're going the right way and creates bad swinging fall potential. Aug 3, 2008
Awesome steep start. The end is a bit different... The name is very appropriate. Sep 1, 2007

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