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Routes in Riddle

CatDog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldstone's Riddle T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,936 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on May 19, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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24 Opinions

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Description

The route begins at the crest of the hill... NW corner of the Riddle formation. The first bolt is easily visible from the ground. EXCELLENT moves lead to an EXHILIRATING summit. Crux moves are at the very top of the route.

Protection

3 bolts and a set of stoppers.
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
First ascent August 5, 1968, by Richard Goldstone and Eric Bregman. No bolts were used, and the protection as scanty---probably X-rated by modern standards. I think we called it the "West Buttress of the Riddle." Mar 10, 2013
Dakota Kid
Rochester Hills, MI
 
Dakota Kid   Rochester Hills, MI
 
Easy, fun, but the the crystals get sharper the colder it gets! Sep 26, 2009
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.6
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.6
I led this several years back (1998?) without knowing what the route was except that someone told me it went 5.6. I remember using a couple of Friends on the way up in addition to clipping the 3 bolts. I also traversed to the left as I approached the summit since it seemed easier and I didn't see any pro above the last bolt. I got a shock when I saw what appeared to be the anchor on top (an old rusty, loose bolt with no hanger). Then somebody yelled from another summit (Thank you whomever you are) that the anchor was on the back of the formation. Haven't tired it since. Jul 30, 2007
I'd rename this "Means to an End", but thats just me.
This is a great way to get to the 5.9-10? under the anchors, which is rly fun. I used a #7 hex for 2nd pro. I chickened out on the crux and traversed left to summit, tho getting to the anchors (on the other side of the rock) is easier if you don't. You can't be lowered off (it was threatening to rain and I tried it) so hang off the chains and belay from there, then rap down. Jun 3, 2007
scott isaacman
Silver Bay, MN
 
scott isaacman   Silver Bay, MN
 
Great fun, easy climb. Sep 20, 2006