[Hide Comment] This is a great summit, and a great place to moon the helicopters :) Ropes would be overkill. I have taken many non climbers up this route. All of the climbing sections are 15-20 feet long off huge ledges and only require a good spotter for the non climbers. Feb 26, 2012

[Hide Comment] A very enjoyable scramble. The actual "climbing" starts from the saddle on the east side of the spire (between Morning Glory and Jap Head) with a low-angled class-4 slab. If you've brought a rope, bring it to the top of this slab and stash it there, because this is the point of rappel and the average competent 4th-class scrambler won't need it above whatsoever.

From the top of the slab, pick your own adventure along the ridge. Below the summit on the left (east) side is a fun and secure class-4 chimney section off a fat ledge. Beyond that it's an easy, photogenic ramble to the tippy top.

Best way to descend (IMO): Retrace your steps down the ridge to where you stashed your rope and locate two bolts above the initial low-angled slab. Two full-length rappels (knot your ends on the second rap!) with a single 60-m rope take you all the way down a prominent, blocky corner on the east face, depositing you partway down the bushy approach gully. This saves having to downclimb the initial slab and the upper part of gully below the saddle. Mar 2, 2016

[Hide Comment] ultimate rest day spire. bringing a non climber up here without a rope and a minor plan sounds pretty crazy though. Jan 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] Just to make things clear on the current anchor situation. There is no "fixed baby angle" or anchor at the summit of the spire and you need to do some downclimbing of 4th class rock in order to get back to the highest rap anchor (one of two). This topmost one is a single bolt. You can leave your rope and harnesses there and climb up to the top of the spire and back down again. I recommend rapping off this route instead of downclimbing, as it's a lot more fun and easier, and safer if you're doing it correctly. The second, lower rap anchors are a bit exposed on a downward slope but it isn't too sketchy to walk out to it and attach yourself with a sling/biner to the anchor in order to set up the rope for rappel.

Also, for routefinding, look for a trail that goes to the left around the Devil's Kitchen sinkhole. Nov 13, 2018

[Hide Comment] I think a rope is overkill for this for anyone that climbs. Maybe for a hiker... Also the bolted anchors allow you to rap past a section that you can basically walk down (not under the anchors but the easiest way down to the saddle). All of the 4th class sections are short and not exposed. Nov 19, 2018

[Hide Comment] Took the dogs for a hike last week to check out Morning Glory Spire. My dogs forgot their sticky rubber shoes so we just scrambled around the base. The approach was a bit more of a bitch than I realized. The spire is super close to the trail but the brushy gully is a bit of a thrash. Maybe I didn't find the best approach but I didn't see any other good options. Anyway, was wondering about the crack/s on the east/southeast side. See pics that I posted. The left one looks like it might be fun. Maybe 5.9/5.10? Is it worth going back and climbing these? Nov 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] Trip report of the climb: TheMtsAreCalling.com/mgs/ Jan 23, 2020

[Hide Comment] A nice hike up! Not too much “climbing” , just a little bit of scrambling with the hands. Great exposure at the summit!

Approach shoes or sandals (bedrock, Chaco, etc) are my recommendations for footwear. I personally recommend just bringing some water , snacks, etc Jul 12, 2022