PRINT: Rock Climb Technical Fowl, Santa Fe Area

Technical Fowl

5.10b, Sport,

Avg: 2.4 from 24 votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Cockscomb Crag > Chicken Little Area

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Starts just to the right of, and gains the same ledge as Casada Noodle Soup. To spot the route just look up for a bolt line heading between two distinct cracks. Once gaining the initial ledge you can step up and clip the first bolt. A few reachy, semi difficult moves will lead to some easier ones and a smooth face with cracks on either side of the bolt line. Nice route, though one you gain the face it seems to wander back and fourth across the face (contrived)! The route setters intended for the route to head up the center between cracks for the 5.10d grade. Though the cracks are so close to the bolt line, it is very tempting to reach for the large jugs that are part of the crack system. Staying between the cracks would definitely increase the grade to or beyond the 10d listed in the guides (R. Bradshaw and JM Beverly). However, you can easily clip the bolts heading up either crack system.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up that route could be a Technical Fowl.

Margaret milking a no hands rest. You can find at least one on each route here.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM

5.10d

Directly up the bolt line is stiff 10d. The two cracks are tempting and close. I climbed it like most people by wandering. Use both cracks and you get a great 10a/b. Harder than the Egg but only a little. I did it on sight. My friends were very impressed since they didn't see me use the cracks. Oct 8, 2006

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM

Walt Wehner and I established this route. We climbed it, named it, and rated it based on the direct line (no crack), which is aesthetic but in retrospect a bit contrived given the proximity of the crack. I think the direct line requires better (more fun) movement, but its fun any way you do it. Sep 26, 2007

Robin
Albuquerque, NM

I recently did this route without using the cracks. Not too contrived if you ask me, just a little bit of self control is needed to keep from reaching out to the crack.

Climbing without the cracks makes for a very fun climb. If you make it using the cracks, go back and try without. Likewise I suppose I'll see how the route feels using the cracks, either way probably worth climbing.... Jul 5, 2008