PRINT: Rock Climb Waiting to Procrastinate, Santa Fe Area

Waiting to Procrastinate

5.10b, Sport,

Avg: 3 from 100 votes
FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Grotto Left (E Side)

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

One of the better 10s on this wall, this route has nice movement. Perfect rests between the crux moves.

Location

See route #7 on attached photo map.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nok moves through the lower section with ease

Logan rapping and the sun lowering

Climbs the right face using the arete from time to time.

Jason finishing Waiting to Procrastinate

Jason on crux of Waiting to Procrastinate

The Golden Boy cleaning and working the moves to find the stances before bolting Waiting To Procrastinate.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM

5.10b

Excellent 10b sport climb. Oct 8, 2006

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM

I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newel. Aug 15, 2007

Ken Kisiel

Sustained climbing through the bottom to a good rest. I always seem to move up from the rest and returning back down from the crux several times, procrasitnating on making the final crux move. Apr 8, 2011

Michael Parker
Belgrade, MT

5.10b

Crux move is so good once you commit to it. Apr 2, 2018

Nun Ya

Just a heads up that the large block/jug immediately beneath the 4th bolt is starting to have a little wiggle to it. Not sure how long it’s been like that but I only noticed it for the first time last week. When this block does come loose it will be a meteor aimed directly at the most natural belay location. Please be aware and climb safe. Seriously, this one will be a doozy Sep 26, 2019

Kevin Bond
Athens, Ga

This block is not loose at all its just kind of hollow, I pried on it yesterday and it is solid with no chance of trundling anytime soon. Jun 5, 2020

Andrew Ellis
Albuquerque, NM

5.10b

Revisiting the loose block comments - it shifted about half a cm on me today. It has a hollow seam running behind and underneath it. It will come off after the freeze thaw cycle of one of these winters. Right now it looks like you could get a pry bar behind it on the right side, but it may not yet be ready to come off without a lot of work. I was able to climb past it while using other holds, and while it made it pumpier, I still think it kept it at hard 10b. When it comes off it will be a doozy. Sep 4, 2023