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Routes in Barks Canyon Wall

Bandito Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Big Bruno T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fettucini Afraido T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Glory Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Lead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Road, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer Til Done T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stroke it Gently T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuesday Afternoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,252 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mike on May 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

The first 2 pitches are great, the last 2 not so great. P1: Climb the open book to a large ledge with a bolt. 5.6 P2: Climb down and right to another dihedral, this one with a small overhang. Up the dihedral, pull the small overhang (5.7, a bit awkward but easy) then face & crack to a belay ledge. P3: Traverse right and slightly down (3rd & 4th class) to a moderate crack. Follow the crack up to a belay ledge. P4: Head up the chimney, then up and left to reach the belay bolts atop the wall.

Location

Start right of The Long Lead beneath a shallow, right-facing corner, just left of of a smooth, blank wall. Descent is either to scramble to The Long Lead descent or make a short rappel west, then scramble west, then down & around to the start of the climb.

Protection

Natural anchors with a few fixed pins. Bring a standard rack.

Photos

RandyLee
Los Angeles, CA
RandyLee   Los Angeles, CA
No webbing at the top of P2 as of January 2018. Fine with me, I planned on going all the way. P4 was worth going up for. Jan 6, 2018
ryan albery
van world
ryan albery   van world
I wouldn't suggest this route to someone who is breaking into 5.7 on gear, unless you're solid on sport .9 and familiar with climbing on rhyolyte. Most of the good placements are fidgeting in small wires, especially offsets (.2-.4"), into the bottom of old pin scars. Crux for me was getting a shoulder into the offwidth on pitch 2. Felt like 5.8.

Two bolts with rap links atop 1st pitch, and a big boulder slung with webbing (and a rap ring) atop pitch two. Excellent rock, and fun climbing. Jan 22, 2012
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
 
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
 
Did this route over the weekend, its a great entry to trad leading if you want some fun climbing with good opportunities to place gear. There are 2 bolts at the first belay station now. had to bail after 2 pitches ran out of time.
this would be a great climb early summer as the wall is shaded all afternoon. Jan 9, 2012