The Long Lead
Avg: 2.8 from 37 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||4,827 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Mike on May 16, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
A fun 3 1/2 pitch route with spectacular scenery, decent rock (for The Supes), and some exposure. P1: Make a few face moves to get into a squeeze chimney. Ascend the chimney and cracks to a ledge. A short 5.6ish pitch. P2: Step up and right over a pocketed face, then up and left into a large right-facing dihedral (visible from the ground.) Climb up the dihedral until a face up and right brings you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8, 140'. P3: Scramble up and left into a wide chimney. Bridge and chimney up past a chockstone (sling for pro) and then exit out right. Step across chimney to left and mantle over a small ledge, then low-angle face & crack to base of next chimney. P3 & 1/2: Scramble up the chimney (3rd class) then chimney for about 10' (5.easy) past a chockstone to summit.
Located on the left (east) side of Barks Canyon Wall underneath a squeeze chimney. Descent is to scramble down the backside, then around to the East and down to the base.