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Piranha

5.12b, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 62 votes
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Minnesota > Red Wing (a.k.a… > Cyclops Area

Description

The first 25 feet of this route is where all the business happens. Technical start with tricky/awkward sequences until you reach the bulge 20' off the deck. Pull through the bulge and mantle to a rest. Avoid moving left at the bulge for full value. A bit runout up top but the climbing backs off considerably. Not the most intriguing route but could be better with more traffic.

Location

start approximately 7' right of Big Rocks. The center bolt line around the corner from sleeping bat.

Protection

bolts, top anchors are probably getting pretty old by now

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cruxin
[Hide Photo] Cruxin
Eric exiting the crux!
[Hide Photo] Eric exiting the crux!
Eric pulling on the pocket
[Hide Photo] Eric pulling on the pocket
Rope hanging on Piranha.
[Hide Photo] Rope hanging on Piranha.
Moving through the crux.
[Hide Photo] Moving through the crux.
Hooking up the third bolt. Not yet at the crux, but the route tends to wear you out before you get there which makes it extra fun to pull.
[Hide Photo] Hooking up the third bolt. Not yet at the crux, but the route tends to wear you out before you get there which makes it extra fun to pull.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

K Ice
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Traverse left or right at the top to use the anchors on the adjacent routes. Some fun moves! Apr 4, 2008
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] There are anchors above this route but they are old, rusty open shuts that are far apart. You can use them as a directional along with the achors off to the left but I would not trust them alone. May 28, 2009
Nick Smith
Saint Paul, MN
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Don't mind the description. I found this route quite "intriguing" and would recommend it to anyone looking for a low 12 to work. Awesome boulder-y and technical crux up to the 3rd clip. Then do some sweet tic-tacky moves over the bulge. A classic Red Wing 12 in my book. Get on it! Jul 2, 2014