PRINT: Rock Climb Total X, Wasatch Range

Total X

5.10b, Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 111 votes
FA: ??
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon > Watchtower > Watchtower Main

Description

This route is a must do! Not a 100% sure on the rating, but it's steep with trad to start and has a sporty finish. Start directly below the first bolt in the corner. The names a little deceiving (*unless you don't bring gear*). Because the beginning protects fine with a little pro.

Location

Furthest route to the left. Look up way high for the first bolt. It's about 25-30ft up there.

Protection

A couple cams or nuts and 3 bolts, plus 2xchain anchor.
(I used #0.75 and a #1 Camalot).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Total X on right Imperial on left

Spencer Sitton sending total x before we made our way over to extreme unction after the top towers finished up. Both climbs are excellent.

Tmax showing how excited he is that he made it too the top... Go She-raa! ; )

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Bailey
murray, ut

5.10b

This route was a lot of fun. From the base it looks like jug town, but once you get up on it, it's way steeper than it looks, and all those massive, perky jugs turn into droopy, saggy slopers. it surprised me how tough this one turned out to be. Oct 15, 2008

M L
Sonora, CA

No longer a 2 bolt anchor and the one remaining is a POS loose with stacked washers. I don't have a drill, but if you do this excellent route needs new anchors desperately. John Doe has pretty crappy chain on it as well and could use an upgrade too. Jul 29, 2013

Skat B
Down Rodeo

5.10b

I threw in a #.5 and #.75 before getting to the first bolt. Pretty easy climbing up to that point. What makes this climb feel hard is that, like most climbs in Ferguson, the slopers are pretty slick with bad feet in a couple of spots. Great jug below the 3rd bolt though!! btw I headed right after the 3rd bolt because the anchor consists of one bolt w/o a hanger, and the other bolt has a small bit of rusty chain attached to it w/ a ton of washers. Definitely needs a new anchor. I used the anchor on John Doe #2 to get down (also would be cool if that anchor were replaced). Jun 24, 2014

Gub

5.10b PG13

I really like this route. A bit short, but it's good and pumpy. Some really great jugs, with some not-so-great feet. I'm verifying Skat's comment that the true anchor for this route is damaged and missing a chain (only one of the bolts has a chain.) I too used the anchor for John Doe #2, which can be safely reached by using a positive side bar above and to the right of the original anchors. By placing a couple small pieces of pro at the bottom, this becomes a perfectly safe climb. Without them, the start could be a little sketchy. Enjoy! Jul 25, 2014

Eli Peterson
Orem

5.10b/c

Climbed this route with no trad gear. Not to bad. Anchor is one bolt with chains and one screw that is sticking out. The screw can pretty easily be wrapped with a short amount of webbing, I would have left some there but I left all my webbing in the car Jul 25, 2015

bus driver

We left some red super tape and a biner on that stud last week. Too bad someone already ganked it. Should be up there to fix the anchor this week. Jul 27, 2015

Rob Metcalf
Salt Lake City, UT

TOP ROPE WARNING: THIS MIGHT RUIN YOUR ROPE

The Granite Guide says that this climb has a two-bolt anchor at the top. If the anchor is there, it is completely overgrown by bushes and not visible. I looked and could not find it. This causes you to use the anchor for Fire and Brimstone, Fortress, and other climbs.

I do not recommend using this anchor to top rope. Today my friend and I used it thinking the rope drag over the top of the cliff wouldn't be a big deal. When my friend got to the top he realized the entire sheath of the rope was worn through and that the inner strands were starting to wear as well. One of the scariest things I've had happen while climbing.

If you value your rope and partner's life I strongly do not recommend top roping this climb. Jun 4, 2020