Dropping Out
5.9+ R,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Bill Robins, Les Ellison 1985
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Altered States Gully
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a difficult to discern and difficult to protect route. I guess, it fits right in to Altered States Gully. I have to give kudos to Robins and Ellison for their route-finding skills amidst the sea of rotten rock down low. It climbs the rib of rock in between Discrete Feat's crack and Sleight of Hand's polished corner. It starts unprotected and then gains weaknesses and cracks climbing along the right side of a large downward facing flake. There is a one-bolt anchor at the top of this flake, with acceptable back-ups to assist you. There was a relic Tri-Cam used as part of the probable original anchor system. I did not actually climb this pitch as we got confused as to where the start was, so I cannot vouch for the quality or lack thereof, however, it did look rotten and runout. The second pitch traverses right along an easy undercling and up along another flake, this one an easy right facing flake, until just before it runs out. Another traverse follows right along an increasing slabby ledge system (Discrete Feat's 2nd pitch beginning), and then climbs up bottomed flaring grooves until you can start, thankfully, placing pieces. Follow these grooves and occasional protectable cracks as they move you gradually leftward, one crack at a time, until you get to a tree. Rapp off. Single rope rappel will get you to the top of Clutching at Straws, where another single will get you down. The first rappel it is neccesary to aim rappellers right.
The second pitch was worthwhile with lots of good rock, exposed climbing, and runout.
Location
The start is on the blunt arete left of Discrete Feat's crack.
Protection
I used a #2, and a #1 Camalot for the anchor along with a medium hex. Medium nuts wouldn't hurt. The second pitch required some wide cams, for the flake, and some small cams for the upper face. Some nuts woudl also be useful. Also, there is one pin up high.