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Brown Reason to Live

5.12c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 46 votes
FA: Dave Groth
Wisconsin > Central > Grandad Bluff > Meader Wall

Description

Tough route -- very sustained. Has gotten easier over the years as holds have broken.  Aim for the massive hueco up high.  Exiting this "rest" can be tough...  

Location

Third route on the left.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Darin Limvere at the crux of Brown Reason
[Hide Photo] Darin Limvere at the crux of Brown Reason
Moves just above the crux.
[Hide Photo] Moves just above the crux.
Pulling the last moves
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with permission from Nathan Erickson
[Hide Photo] Pulling the last moves with permission from Nathan Erickson
Midroute
[Hide Photo] Midroute

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Travis Melin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] The hold that broke was the pinch just above the hueco, right at the top of the route. It was a nasty wide pinch and is now a very positive pistol grip. Jun 14, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I can't remember, but was it Scott S. who broke the hold? Trav, you might know. I remember climbing the route before the hold broke and then one day it was a giant pinch grip that it is today. I remember old school UW-L students calling this a 13b. Dave always said 13a, I agree. Funny how the Meader wall can change. Jul 15, 2007
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] yea remo, scott was the one. The routes feel a lot more solid now a days compared to 5 years ago at least at the meter wall. These routes take soooooooooooooo long to get clean. Jul 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] Other holds beyond the pinch have broken off this thing. Besides the pinch, all holds I can think of have only made this route harder (especially the damage Gabe did while working into his eventual redpoint :) - that guy just cranks too hard). Current grade is accurate to the last time I was on it. Great route. Aug 1, 2007
Bingman
Arden Hills, MN
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Best route on the wall. It's not over till you clip the chains! Nov 9, 2007
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12b
[Hide Comment] There must have been some substantial hold breakage (making the holds much better). As of now, this is very consistent (possibly easier) with pork tornado and definitely no harder than 12b (no where close to 12d). So don't let the grade scare you. When the hold above the last bolt breaks it could be a touch harder. Oct 4, 2010
Tony Litke
La Crosse, WI
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] It was hard (it took several efforts) but 5.12d is a stretch. I was pretty strong when I first got on it but have softened a bit. I'll have to get on it again this spring to verify. Mar 4, 2015
Alex Stoffel
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] The large pinch above the hueco broke a while back. Small right hand crimp has replaced it. Solid rock, but added a bit of difficulty. Final moves now feel very crux-y compared to the middle of the route. Sep 28, 2016