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Routes in Meader Wall

Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Reason to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cohesion V0 4
Hawaiian Bill S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Macroputz TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Man In The Black Pajamas, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Micro Putz S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nihilist S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ninja TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Patent Pending S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pork Tornado S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 3,906 total, 28/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 12, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Tough route -- very sustained. Has gotten easier over the years as holds have broken.

Location

Third route on the left.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Photos

Alex Stoffel
  5.12b/c
Alex Stoffel  
  5.12b/c
The large pinch above the hueco broke a while back. Small right hand crimp has replaced it. Solid rock, but added a bit of difficulty. Final moves now feel very crux-y compared to the middle of the route. Sep 28, 2016
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.12-
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.12-
It was hard (it took several efforts) but 5.12d is a stretch. I was pretty strong when I first got on it but have softened a bit. I'll have to get on it again this spring to verify. Mar 4, 2015
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12b
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12b
There must have been some substantial hold breakage (making the holds much better). As of now, this is very consistent (possibly easier) with pork tornado and definitely no harder than 12b (no where close to 12d). So don't let the grade scare you. When the hold above the last bolt breaks it could be a touch harder. Oct 4, 2010
Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
Best route on the wall. It's not over till you clip the chains! Nov 9, 2007
GForge  
Other holds beyond the pinch have broken off this thing. Besides the pinch, all holds I can think of have only made this route harder (especially the damage Gabe did while working into his eventual redpoint :) - that guy just cranks too hard). Current grade is accurate to the last time I was on it. Great route. Aug 1, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
yea remo, scott was the one. The routes feel a lot more solid now a days compared to 5 years ago at least at the meter wall. These routes take soooooooooooooo long to get clean. Jul 23, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12d
I can't remember, but was it Scott S. who broke the hold? Trav, you might know. I remember climbing the route before the hold broke and then one day it was a giant pinch grip that it is today. I remember old school UW-L students calling this a 13b. Dave always said 13a, I agree. Funny how the Meader wall can change. Jul 15, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
The hold that broke was the pinch just above the hueco, right at the top of the route. It was a nasty wide pinch and is now a very positive pistol grip. Jun 14, 2007