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Routes in Pistol Whipped Wall

A Good Day to Die T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dangling Derelict T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firing Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hair Trigger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang 'Em High TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peacemaker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pistol Whipped S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ricochet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shootin' Blanks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Showdown, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Silver Bullet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Page Views: 148 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 11, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the face to steep headwall just right of Ricochet on the left side of the Pistol Whipped Wall.

An easy start up nicely featured rock leads to a scooped out area and then a prominent horizontal below a smooth headwall. Crimping your way over the headwall and then getting established above.is the crux, and the airy feeling adds to the excitement.

Although slightly chossy in the middle section, the rest of the climb is on good rock and a bit more traffic will help to clean this up nicely.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
The bulge is extremely difficult. Just the right amount of fun and balance to reach some key holds and clipping safe (TR hero here). Switching hands to pull the bulge seemed almost undoable. Right hip in, left hip in, straight on, bionic strength... nothing worked. Ultimately, a full cheat of hang and swap hands without sequence to pull the move and top out.

Sometimes you're just not good enough to do a route but can see/read the line. This wasn't like that... I don't think the sequence to dynamically make the transitions with the hands will come to me. I tried pretty hard and failed. Before and After... fun stuff, borderline tweaky at the top or perhaps just finger fatigue from the lower crux.

I'm not a big beta gal, but would love to see someone lead the line. Good stuff... if you got it!

Edit: The decomposing flake that flake speaks of above is marked with an X. It doesn't look that attractive but more solid than the X it's marked with. Completely avoidable, never touched it to gain the scoop and horizontal above. Jul 14, 2017
Hank G
Flagstaff, AZ
Hank G   Flagstaff, AZ
There's a loose/rotten flake below and right of the scoop. Its a pretty crucial right-hand side pull that allows you to gain the scoop via the somewhat blank section directly below. Make sure your belayer is wearing their helmet and using an auto locking device. Oct 11, 2014
Coon  
Fun route. You come out of the scoop and onto the bulge on 2 obvious crimps. Took a little looking and feeling to figure out the next crimps, but theyre there and not bad... let me bring my right foot up and push up onto the buldge. Fun aint over yet, awesome thin moves to finish off on pumped fingers. May 16, 2014
Reading the above note makes me feel better. Pulling that bulge goes a fair bit more than 11a. There is a good hold from where the broken hold is but getting there is a pretty difficult sequence. The fall is no big deal because there is a bolt right at your belly so go for it even if 11a is your limit. Jul 3, 2012
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
yes, a hold broke just over the roof.
In June 2007 it was an awesome 11a route.
By Aug 2007 there was now a kinda nasty harder move added. Aug 21, 2008
gregory huey
Irvine, CA
gregory huey   Irvine, CA
Did this route lose a key hold on the lip of the bulge, right side? Kinda looks that way to me... Aug 4, 2008