Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: FA Mark Hawthorne/ Mark GeikenJoyner, FFA Rodney Blakemore
Page Views: 3,318 total · 22/month
Shared By: markguycan on May 9, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

90ft of mostly finger jamming. the off-width at the top is "pleasantly easier"

Location

Located in the approach drainage to Book of Friends. Continue up til just before it becomes a slot canyon. then look for the South facing "S" shaped finger splitter.

Protection

Quadruple set of TCU's, nuts useful too, plus Double set to #3.5Camalot, Rap from a bolt and fixed piece below the big roof.

Photos

bernard wolfe
birmingham, al
bernard wolfe   birmingham, al
A single 90 ft pitch.....and Grade V??? Jan 18, 2008
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
he's relating the time he spent working his way up, I can relate. Mar 27, 2008
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
  5.12+ C0
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
  5.12+ C0
This route goes free at 12+ F.A. Rodney Blakemore, and is called Synesthesia as a free climb. FYI the first 40' make a great 11a, and has a lowering station. Jun 20, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Just redpointed this as a freeclimb today. I agree with the 12+ rating.

This is an excellent pitch requiring skill in different size jamming, faceclimbing, small pro and staying cool. It protects very well.

A double set of cams to green Camelot and singles to blue Camelot should suffice. I used the blue on the first pitch at the traverse move. The upper OW can be protected by a red or gold Camelot just placed a little farther back, in case you don't want to drag a large cam up. Oct 22, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
vimeo.com/152520469 Jan 21, 2016