Type: Sport
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 2,637 total · 17/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on May 8, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

58 Opinions

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Stem up chimney then onto right face. Fun to watch new climbers fresh from the gym try to face climb one of the walls. More fun to watch your short-legged friends get butt-cheek-cramps while stemming.


In wide chimney between first two towers. Bolts go up right side then onto face.


Bolts & chains.


Timothy Roehr
Timothy Roehr   Tucson,Az
This climb scares people for some reason. Guess they never learned to stem. It is an easy 5.6 if you stem it. Scott says it would be closer to 5.10 as a face climb. I would rather stem it myself. Aug 14, 2006
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I was scared on this route. It wasn't extremely difficult, just feels weird when you look down and the rock is on your sides and not in front or behind you. I have never done a chimney. But I get scared on anything that I don't have to rely on handholds for! Sep 23, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
the stem isn't very hard but the face at the end is probably more like 5.7-. since 5.7- isn't available i rate this one at 5.7. i found it quite fun. Oct 1, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Watched a beginner lead this today and wished they had a helmet. Had they fallen before getting the stem I would have been on my first rescue as he surly would have hit the wall behind him. May 11, 2009
As a fairly new leader I ventured up this climb hoping it would be on the easier side due to the stemming. While trying to transfer over to the face I peeled off and fell some how stopping myself in the chimney. It would have been a nasty fall like the previous poster wrote. Not hard climbing but not a clean fall at all if you do fall. Helmets are a plus for newbies like myself. Aug 15, 2009
Brigette Beasley
Mukilteo, WA
Brigette Beasley   Mukilteo, WA
Helmets are a plus for anyone with a skull they'd like to keep intact. $.02 Oct 7, 2009
Robert Hunter
Tucson, AZ
Robert Hunter   Tucson, AZ
I was a little dubious about this climb, having heard many people describe it as "heady". Finally TR'd it today, and simply loved it. Other than a couple of chimney moves, it is mostly super fun stemming. The slabby finish is a nice change-up. Joe Lee's advice is right on: don't transition to the right face until it starts to fade away, at which point you can comfortably latch on to some bomber holds. Jul 24, 2010
as a short person... this problem challenged me to think about and trust foot placement. butt-cheek-cramps for sure! the chimney adds immense thrill too! Aug 20, 2010
Don Stump
Sierra Vista, AZ
Don Stump   Sierra Vista, AZ
Rob talked about this climb the day before so I had to try it. There were times when I was scared because of that empty space beneath you. Chimney climbs are totally different feel but once you get the hang of it was easy. There was a time when I was doing the newbie thing and face climb the right side. My belay, Sara, had to mention that there is a big rock face directly behind you and after that things got better. Finish the climb with no falls, but didn't on-sight it as I would have expected.

Climbed this again on Sunday the 22nd and was expecting it to be easier, but it wasn't. Still a difficult head game for me and I will be back again because of the fun climb it is. Can't wait to "red point" it. May 20, 2011
I am a solid 5.9 climber and had a super hard time with this climb both times I did it. The chimney is fairly easy and I support the 5.6 designation. However, I would put the top closer to a 5.10. No joke. So, if you are a new 5.6 leader I would take caution jumping on this before top roping it. Jul 23, 2014
Brian Meyer
Tucson, AZ
Brian Meyer   Tucson, AZ
Like others, I thought the stemming was fairly easy, but the last several moves to the anchors had my scared. Maybe I was missing something, but following the bolt line, after stemming, left me struggling to find hands until the near end, where there are some solid holds. Still thoroughly enjoyed it. Mar 27, 2016