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Routes in Spaghetti Western Wall

Angel Eyes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bad, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bone Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner Saloon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack With No Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimensional Cowgirl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For A Few Ankles More S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Giu La Testa S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Tree, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plain High Drifter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoot Don't Talk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Shorty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trapdoor T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: M. Rangel, Mike Knarzer
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on May 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Getting past the lip of the roof is very difficult; a tcu could be placed in the crack if necessary to help you feel better about clipping the bolt past the lip. Cranking over the roof is easier if a foot jam overhead is used.

Location

Look for the obvious roof with a crack in it.

Protection

all bolts plus one tcu maybe.
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
I tried to keep the fixed draw a bit less visible at the time. A chain would suffice but I will probably use the same fixed draw type. Thanks for the heads up. Apr 5, 2016
Justin Headley   Tucson
The fixed draw has a few broken strands of wire on it. Perhaps it should be replaced with a chain? Apr 3, 2016
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.11c
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.11c
I placed a cam in one of the slots to make clipping the perma-draw more comfortable and then took out the cam. Probably easier than Submission and La Nariz just because the route is over once you complete the roof, but who knows ... it was certainly fun to do. Feb 8, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b PG13
Clipping the third bolt is a scary proposition, even with the fixed draw in place. There may be potential for a groundfall. That said I did not look for supplemental gear.

My solution to pulling the roof was more traditional. I'll have to go back to try the overhead footjam. A wild roof no matter how you pull it! Mar 9, 2014
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Anytime you use a footjam over your head it's hella cool (I think)... Therefore I neeeeed to try this route. Feb 24, 2008