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Routes in Westworld Dome

Chief Tossing Cookies T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coati Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Defrocked Direct Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Dreamscape Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dustdevils T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Apache T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ringtail Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Warpaint T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Scott, EFR, Ben Morin, Robert McLeod, Emily Cheng
Page Views: 1,053 total · 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 8, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

The last ten feet are the business. The bottom has some great well protected crack climbing. The top can be finished two ways. Off width it or stem it. The latter may be a letter grade harder but easier if your OW technique is not too good or you happen to be facing the wrong way in the crack.

Location

This route is about thirty feet up the hill to the left of where the trail reaches Westworld Dome. It is quite obvious to the right of the cave the last rappel off of Warpaint drops you in to.

Protection

Doubles on cams to #3 Camalot were used with a pretty exciting run on a single #4 to the top. So if you really want it safe bring a #5 Camalot. Anchors are at the top.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.10+
Fat Apache is the crack to the right of climber in the photo. Jun 4, 2006
Does anyone know the name/grade of route to the left of this, the one with the climber on it in the photo above? I got on it, the climbing was great and felt mid 5.11ish for the first 5 bolts or so, but I couldn't make it past the upper roof and had to bail. Go send it and get a biner!

-Scott Feb 11, 2008
Jimbo  
Scott,
EFR and I bolted this thing last year, then got all out of shape and couldn't do it. (Wait that would assume we were actually ever in shape last year)
Anyway, we've dogged our way through all the moves a few times, it's somewhere around 12c/d. The moving gets hard at the roof you bailed from and stays hard to the top. Sustained and sequential.
Way to go getting on the thing!
We are planning (hoping) to redpoint this route and a few more in the area this spring. But feel free to keep working it, it's an open project as far as I'm concerned. Feb 13, 2008

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