Clem's Folly

The second pitch dihedral has stellar climbing and can easily be done without the following pitches. From first appearances though this climb can be easily overlooked. The first pitch climbs up a moss filled gully and is not exactly appealing. However, once the dihedral is obtained the climbing is superb. The dihedral offers intermittent flaring hand/finger cracks and requires creative stemming and smart gear placement.

Pitch 1: Start either below or to the right of a small tree seen up on the rock. Traverse left of the tree to a dihedral and follow this up. A short bit of face climbing will take you to a wide ledge.

Pitch 2: Go up the dihedral on your right. Near the top of ti you may exit to your left for a short break, but will be right back in the same crack until the belay, which is a bolt backed up by a piton.

Pitch 3: Head right towards an old 1/4" bolt about 15' away and keeps going right and only slightly up so that you top out of the slab just short of a left-facing corner above it. You can go up this corner and cut right under a roof at the top of it to a belay stance above a large boulder. A better protectable way to the same belay is to go past the corner and up the boulders and such which make up the arete.

Pitch 4: Follows a 25' hand-crack to another ledge and then easy 5th class scrambling to the summit.

The base of this climb is near the clearing at the bottom of the descent gully for Glad We Came. Either start directly from the left edge of this clearing, or bushwhack 15' further east and climb directly up to the dihedral.

Standard rack. The anchor at the top of P1 is a new 1/2" bolt with a rap-ring, backed up by a piton.