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Routes in The Rhino's Horn

Fifteen Minutes of Shame T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Regular Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ben Kiessel (solo), Brad Brandewie belayed on the first pitch at a earlier date.
Page Views: 1,046 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on May 8, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The east side of the Rhino's Horn looks like a giant upside down letter "Y". Fifteen minutes of Shame starts on the left leg of the "Y".
Pitch 1: 20' of clean finger crack leads to a small roof and a short section of bad rock. Continue up a slabby dihedral to the anchors. I climbed this at 5.9 C1 but it will probably go free at 5.10+, the crux of which will be the small roof at the beginning. (100')
Pitch 2: Climb up broken cracks past 2 bolts to a big roof/overhang. Wiggle and squirm over the lip. Once over the lip, cut left onto the slab then back right to avoid a super thin crack. Easy climbing leads to some fun stemming and cool rock to get on the summit. I also climbed this pitch at 5.9 C1 and it too will go free but at about 5.11, with the crux getting up to and over the roof. (100')

Location

The route is on the east side of the tower and starts from the saddle between the tower and the cliff. Looking at the tower from this saddle the route starts on the far left crack system. I rappelled the route, using the anchors of the "regular route". If you do this be sure to extend the anchors on the top so you will be able to pull the rope, also be prepared to swing back into the belay of pitch 1.

Protection

I had doubles of everything up to a #3 Camalot, one 3.5, and 4, a set of stoppers. You could probably place a #4 Big Bro on pitch 2 coming over the roof but I did not have one and was fine.

Photos

Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11a
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11a
We climbed it all free at about 5.11a. I left the stem, opting to avoid the chockstone entirely, climbing broken cracks out right. May 12, 2016
Mark Hammond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Mark Hammond   Eldorado Springs, CO
I agree on the 10+. One rope will get you down the regular route if you scramble to the 2nd anchor and take the 2nd rap skier's R.(which is not the way the slings were oriented). Then its an easy walk around the tower to your packs. Rapping skier's L. there would require 2 ropes and a longer return journey to the base of the route. The route had some fun climbing, but also some poor rock, worth doing once. We used a #4 Camalot to anchor the belayer at the base of the route. Apr 11, 2014
Ben Kiessel  
 
Nice job! Glad to hear that someone has been on the route.
Ben Nov 30, 2008
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
I climbed this route all free at what I reason to be 5.10+. Helmets are highly recommended as the belay at the top of pitch one is directly below a large sketchy chockstone that the leader will be pulling on. The offwidth section sports two bolts so leave the tubes at home. Outstanding views from a cool perch. Nov 20, 2008