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Routes in Center/Headwall

Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Shannon Scott (2005)
Page Views: 2,535 total · 17/month
Shared By: mschlocker on May 7, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Four star sport route right up the center of the headwall of El Cajon Mt, El Cap Wall. Climb up steep rock to a roof. Pull through the roof onto more steep climbing above. A very "soft" 5.11. Mildly pumpy with mostly positive holds. Mental crux is the roof but technical crux actually occurs higher up when the pump starts to set in. Wild position on the headwall with steep yet straightforward climbing and an unusually "fun" roof give this climb two thumbs up. Rap anchor at top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of Tears of Envy (5.11b), use anchor just down and right of Tears anchor. Starts at the left of the wide vertical black streak at the headwall and finishes up in the right side of the streak. Look for the black roof about 1/3 of the way to the top out anchor which is visible from the start of the climb.

Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts, rap anchor with steel 'biners.

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Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
This climb is 10a. May 22, 2006
This climb and "Tears of Envy" have been chopped. Sep 11, 2007
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
 
Tears of Envy is now bolted, Black Castle appears to still be chopped. Feb 11, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
 
Rebolted, thanks guys! Feb 24, 2014

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