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Golden Stairs

5.11c, Sport, 120 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 106 votes
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Phil Simon 10/87
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Righ…
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

A classic line. Begin just right of the Goliath arete (both routes share the same start), and climb to the top of a large pillar. Once gaining the top of the pillar continue up and pull a balancy move for the technical crux. Trend right on large holds, then up and through the bulge. This bulge is the crux for most, as the pump clock is ticking. After pulling this bulge, the rest is only 5.8 climbing but can be a little spooky, especially if your super pumped! It is fairly run out from there to the anchors.

One can continue to the top from the midpoint anchors, but if done it will be helpful to have a 70m rope. Run out but easy climbing up there.

Protection

10 bolts to the first set of anchors. If you continue to the top there are three more bolts. A 70m rope is mandatory for lowering from the top to the ground. If using a 60m rope, lower from the top to the mid-point anchors, anchor in, pull the rope down from the top, thread into mid-anchor and lower from there.

***See Comment Below:***
As of May 16, 2018 there is not a nut holding the hanger on at the 3rd bolt. Watched a gust of wind blow the hanger off with a quickdraw attached to it while my buddy was up the 8th bolt. We couldn’t find the nut, but we left the hanger at the base of the climb. For some, this may change the climb with a slabby crux being protected here with potential for decking. All it needs is a nut, a little locktite, a wrench, and some elbow grease to be repaired, but alas we only had elbow grease with us.
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Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

2nd 'pitch' of Golden Stairs.
[Hide Photo] 2nd 'pitch' of Golden Stairs.
Julien about to clip.
[Hide Photo] Julien about to clip.
Unknown climber sending.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber sending.
Getting ready for the final crux of the climb. Sept. 20, 2008. Photo by DTP.
[Hide Photo] Getting ready for the final crux of the climb. Sept. 20, 2008. Photo by DTP.
Unknown climber on Golden Stairs
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on Golden Stairs
Stunning Line
[Hide Photo] Stunning Line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] There are now 3 bolts between the mid anchors and the top. While not the best rock or the most memorable moves it is certainly worth doing once. Apr 2, 2007
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I thought this was an extremely beautiful route. Enjoyable movement, nice holds, and overall length made it quite memorable. Even though the climbing past the midway anchors may not be anything special, the view from the top is. And if it was runout at all in the past, it certainly isn't anymore. It's a safe cruise to the top anchors. Mar 23, 2011
[Hide Comment] Michael Beyer doing Golden Stairs.


youtube.com/watch?v=rVi_ika… Nov 9, 2011
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
[Hide Comment] This route is SUPER classic. Possibly the best 5.11 route that I have done. Absolutely phenomenal! Steep, pumpy, engaging.... Get on this beast! Rest up at the 4th bolt, and try to sprint to the chains! Jun 3, 2013
Wei-Ming Lam
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] 70 m rope mandatory for lowering from top set of anchors. Tie a knot in the end of your rope even if you have a 70! Do not recommend topping out with a 60m. Sep 6, 2016
Nick Fuentes
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Had the pleasure of working on this beautiful line last week while visiting, Spent 5 days working out the beta, and on the last day of my trip was able to get the red point. Definitely one of my favorite routes of all time and certainly worth the ride. Great project route for any 5.11 climber / Safe falls, great holds, just fight the pump, and enjoy the view. There is a fairly large honey bee nest just at the start of the route by bolt #1; the beta doesnt really interfere with them & they are definitely not aggressive. Good times on a super fun ultra classic route. Aug 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] As of May 16, 2018 there is not a nut holding the hanger on at the 3rd bolt. Watched a gust of wind blow the hanger off with a quickdraw attached to it while my buddy was up the 8th bolt. We couldn’t find the nut, but we left the hanger at the base of the climb. For some, this may change the climb with a slabby crux being protected here with potential for decking. All it needs is a nut, a little locktite, a wrench, and some elbow grease to be repaired, but alas we only had elbow grease with us. May 23, 2018