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Son of Easy O

5.8, Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 482 votes
FA: Jim McCarthy and Al DeMaria, 1962
New York > Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks if you link both pitches: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof.

Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.

P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit 30' left to the rappel bolts over Easy Overhang.

P2: Aim for the overhanging left-facing corner system. If your belay is to the left of the main corner, you can traverse 10'-15' to the right on a sandy horizontal; there are pitons at the start and end of the traverse. The climbing is steep, and the feet are not as good as you might like. Fire through the steep rock above on well-spaced jugs. Pull right onto the face above, then head up and leftward. 5.8, 70'.

There is a piton anchor below the top of the cliff. Rappel from here (single 70m, or double 60s) to avoid the pebbly gully above.

Protection

Standard rack; extra finger-size pro for combining pitches...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Becky Diamond on the P2 roof
[Hide Photo] Becky Diamond on the P2 roof
The P2 roof, as seen from below.  Super climbing! (Photo: J. Stroons)
[Hide Photo] The P2 roof, as seen from below. Super climbing! (Photo: J. Stroons)
Ben leading p2 of Son of Easy Overhang. Photo taken from top of p1 of Easy Overhang.
[Hide Photo] Ben leading p2 of Son of Easy Overhang. Photo taken from top of p1 of Easy Overhang.
The somewhat-dubious 3-pin anchor at the top. Having  to feed the rope through just a single quicklink makes the walkoff or other rappel options look pretty good.
[Hide Photo] The somewhat-dubious 3-pin anchor at the top. Having to feed the rope through just a single quicklink makes the walkoff or other rappel options look pretty good.
The roof on P2...
[Hide Photo] The roof on P2...
Tiff on Son of Easy O
[Hide Photo] Tiff on Son of Easy O
Me starting on the roof of Son of Easy O
[Hide Photo] Me starting on the roof of Son of Easy O
Son of Easy Overhang<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Son of Easy Overhang
Fun climbing!
[Hide Photo] Fun climbing!
Climbing P2 on a sunny day in January
[Hide Photo] Climbing P2 on a sunny day in January
p2 - Son of Easy O
[Hide Photo] p2 - Son of Easy O
Son of Easy O from Pas de Deux
[Hide Photo] Son of Easy O from Pas de Deux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
[Hide Comment] Incredible climbing. The first pitch can feel pretty spicy down low. The second pitch is a great jug haul through roofs, much easier roofs than Modern Times. May 17, 2006
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] For those of you looking to maximize your climbing and stamina you can link both pitches together. When I first led this way back when, I linked them together with a 60m rope and walked down. May 31, 2006
J Beta
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] This is the best pitch of 5.8 I have ever climbed. I combined both pitches and did the route at the end of the day just when the sun began its descent past the horizon. The upper roof is interesting, but never so hard that you can't pause and look around to admire your surroundings. And what amazing surroundings they are. Jun 5, 2006
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
[Hide Comment] Wow, I thought that P1(based on the traditional breakdown of pitches, I actually did the whole route as one pitch) was a cake walk. For me, P2 was the one that made me a little nervous. There's no rest leading up to the crux, and you have to place gear (great gear) while hanging off of one hand with your feet in no position to save you if you pump out or lose your grip.

Strictly allows you to throw a foot out to the right tip of the corner, so you can actually be hands free and resting, albeit awkwardly, while placing gear. May 27, 2009
[Hide Comment] Traditionally, this was done in two pitches, by climbing leftward to the belay ledge for P1, then making a scary move straight up off the ledge to a traverse shelf and hand-traversing 10' right to the bottom of the corner (very scary if you try using this shelf as a foot traverse!). Most folks combine these pitches into one nowadays, by forgoing the leftward move to the ledge, instead moving slightly right and up the steep, sparsely-protected face then up and left to reach the beginning of the corner.
And yes, 70m rope required for that rap. Jan 17, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
[Hide Comment] Did this yesterday at 1 pitch.. it's funny how it has something for everyone's strength.. the slab climbers love the bottom and the roof climbers love the top. I'm a roof climber so i thought the top was easy for me. Jun 29, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
 
[Hide Comment] The huge roof had me pretty intimidated from the ground, but the real business is down low at the small crack. I didn't think much of the moves but they weren't very strenuous and very well protected. You get a fantastic rest before you embark on the steep journey to the beginning of the roof, but once you get up to it it has jugs in every dimension, and once you get into pulling the roof you have great feet out right to rock onto and it feels superb. Long runners under the roof are a must tho! A fantastic climb, a surprising joy ride. Jul 1, 2011
[Hide Comment] I'm just a climber and really like the whole thing. Jul 3, 2011
CatChen
Germantown, MD
 
[Hide Comment] P1 was the crux for me. Sustained and so much fun. The pro was great, so it was never scary. You can really sew up this pitch. I almost unloaded a full set of nuts. P2 roof looks scary, but was very juggy and felt easier than 5.8. Aug 20, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
[Hide Comment] Linked both pitches and think this is the best 5.8 I've climbed in the Gunks. On pitch two you can escape around right onto the face just after the crux for a rest, but it is more fun to contuinue straight up through the corner roofs. Jul 10, 2013
Dan Katz
New York, NY
 
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend doing this in one pitch, as it allows one to skip the somewhat pumpy/sketchy traverse that becomes required when breaking the route into two pitches. I found the overhung section easier to find rest stances on than Strictly From Nowhere, and certainly no single roof-pulling move is more difficult than the crux of that climb. Oct 4, 2017
James Elric
rockville
 
[Hide Comment] Stellar. Both pitches are dope but in entirely different ways. As a sport climber I found P1 was a humbling and fascinating challenge and P2 was a just a glorious, fun, cruiser, monumentally awesome 5.8. I wore my slightly more aggressive Miuras for the start at P1 and felt it was worth it. Just after sunrise the rock was maybe still a bit damp. I did get a solid nut in before that first piton though. Not crucial - but definitely didn't hurt because the bottom is a bit spicy for 5.8. Sep 17, 2018