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Routes in Peewee Rock

Belly Scraper T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Oui Oui, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
PePe LePew TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peewee's Piton S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend Dick Shook, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Span-nish Fly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wee Willy Winkie TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Roy McClenahan, Jim Angione, Dave Evans
Page Views: 697 total · 5/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on May 4, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Climb

This fun route is on the north face of Peewee Rock, 10 feet right of Peewee's Piton (5.10a). Climb the vertical ribs past two bolts, where one must do a liebackish lock off, and stab with the left hand to a bomber hold to the left and gain a ledge. From here one more bolt protects a 10- move veering left to the shared anchors of Peewee's Piton.

The Gear

4 bolts (a couple could use upgrading, especially the second one which absorbs all the falls including one from me.)

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
The bolts are definitely not inspiring, hopefully they'll get replaced. I placed a medium nut and yellow alien getting to the first bolt. Getting up to the third bolt from the ledge (15' above your last bolt) is easily 10- (at least for me - 5'8"). Fortunately I was able to place some pro up and right (opposed small nuts with a bunch of slings to extend) before clipping the bolt. The rock quality is so-so on the upper section. Worth doing, but personally I won't rush back. Apr 18, 2008
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
As Andy indicated the bolts on this route are NOT inspiring (big buttonheads that spin). I want to thank Roy for that very high 1st bolt. Fun, committing moves, but the rock going past the 1st two bolts is loose and grainy. Nov 16, 2014

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