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Routes in Watch Crystal

Apes of Wrath S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crime & Punishment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doctor Doolittle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dogs of Doom T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Exposure Direct T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Durangutan T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evolution S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Extra Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hidden Gem S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kong Route, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Picto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martyr's Crown T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Picto Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Glide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Primate Highway T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Push-Me-Pull-You T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Picto T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Simians to the Sun T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Crystal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Pages T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Pages T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Lella, 1970s?
Page Views: 1,147 total, 8/month
Shared By: Grant Bryans on May 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start the same as Simians to the Sun, but about halfway up bust right at the roof and then go up to the belay of Simians. This has been said to be a little run out.

Protection

East Animas rack and draws.

Photos

Ian Altman
CO
  5.11-
Ian Altman   CO
  5.11-
We modernized this great route in 2007 and replaced the original bashies and angle iron hangers that Bruce Lella had placed in the '70s with 4" Rawl bolts and stainless hangers. If you happen to see this Bruce, I still have your hangers if you want them back. You can still make out your signature on them!

Also think this route makes for a great single pitch linkup to Simians to the Sun. It's direct, and with modern ropes, it makes for an outstanding long pitch! Dec 9, 2015
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.11b PG13
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.11b PG13
I wonder why Kozak "bombed" this route...?

The movement is similar and the climbing is as fun as Apes, Durangotan, Crime and Punishment, etc. Just a few pieces of gear recommended and otherwise enjoyable bolted climbing.

Gear:
-#6/7 BD nut (don't remember)
-(1) 0.75
-(1) 0.5
-(1) 0.4
-Green Alien. Mar 30, 2012
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
  5.11a
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
  5.11a
Agree that linking this into the Watch Crystal Crack makes for a stellar pitch. Jul 5, 2011
chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
This route has steep moves on good rock with some interesting gear between good bolts. Makes a good direct start to Watch Crystal Crack or Simians. Nov 17, 2009