PRINT: Rock Climb Dances with Clams, Smith Rock

Dances with Clams

5.10a/b, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 256 votes
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane, 1991
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (u) Red Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Given 10a in the 92 Watt's guide, this route has continued to lose some holds since then, and is a bit harder now. Overall, the rock on the route now feels pretty solid. Wide edge moves lead to a tricky overhung finish on pockets and edges just before the anchors.

Location

On a short pillar just off the Misery Ridge/Red Wall trail, below Bill's Flake. The route on the right side of the pillar.

Protection

4 bolts, hooks at top to lower off. TR off your own draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The namesake of this climb

Rehanah on Dances With Clams.

Jules showing her dance moves on Dances with Clams

Pete on Dances With Clams & Pop Art

Chris reaching through the crux

Checking out the roof

Luis works dances with clams

Dances with Clams follows the chalk up the right side of this pillar.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

grizz Burton

5.10b

Fun route that I found to be somewhat tricky to start and finish. Jugs through the middle. I'd give it 3 stars if it were a little longer. May 12, 2008

Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon

5.10-

This route is fun jug climbing to a somewhat hard move right below the chains. Oct 14, 2008

Nate Tack

Climbed this route on Saturday skipping the bolts and placing natural gear. Makes for a fun gear pitch, too bad the bolts are already there :-(

Gear beta. Micro brass nut down low (sort of useless once you get going. ) Slight run-out to the side-pull flake where 2x Green C3s go in, these cams are not great but you can double them up and feel sort of good about it. Climb below bulge and stick bomber #2 BD in the horizontal and go to the anchors.

-Nate Mar 29, 2010

Nate Ball

5.10a

65 feet? LAWL!!! More like 40. May 3, 2012

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon

5.10a

Still 10a despite any "missing holds" but is a great warmup romp on this wall. Jul 25, 2013

Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR

Gym climb, in the best possible sense. One of those routes that is worth running laps on, if no ones in line Apr 11, 2016

Nick Drake
Kent, WA

5.10-

Fingers and toes sore from nubbins? Brain fried from run outs? This is a great gym style sport route is pretty refreshing. Apr 17, 2017

Ryan Bowen
Bend, Or

5.10a/b

The jug for clipping the first bolt is very hollow. I could feel it flexing as I was reaching for the hanger. Aug 11, 2017

Hot Smith Guy
Columbia river gorge

great warm up. tricky move at the end but well protected. send it! Jul 2, 2018

Nick Baker
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10c

I suggest checking this routes bolts carefully before blindly trusting them and bring a wrench.. One of the anchor bolts was unscrewed half an inch, likely due to the excess chain swinging in the wind. Bottom two hangers spin with grounded out bolts, likely safe but not reassuring. Fun climb, but the finish felt harder than 10b. Aug 7, 2019

Ryan Wood
Bend, OR

This route is barely 30’ and also one of the best short 5.10- routes ever. Crack. Side pulls. Overhung jugs. Mantel. Double finger pocket. All packed into less than 3 basketball hoop lengths! Jul 12, 2020

Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ

5.10c

Well bolted route, rather sustained at the grade. Advise to stickclip b1 or could be in for a polished surprise:o. Some hard single finger pockets at the end overhang Can be TRd as well by ascending ledge 10m to the left up a 5.7 crack/corner. There's a bolt on top to assist this. Jun 11, 2022